SANDY LIANG SS18 Collection

In her 10th collection, Spring/Summer 2018, designer Sandy Liang continues to approach her brand’s downtown roots with new, playful interpretations of nostalgic narratives and elevated experimentation with shirting and all-year transitional outerwear.

Liang also introduces color-blocked oversize knit polos, floaty eyelet and lace paired with her hallmark statement leather jackets and neck-cozying shearling.

Piece by piece and collection by collection, Liang builds strong thorough lines in her clothes that reveal a consistent understanding of her girl, as well as the riffs and subversions that make her girl reminisce and smirk.

 

 

For more information on Sandy Liang and the designer’s ss18 collection visit WWW.SANDYLIANG.INFO

HERON PRESTON “SHOW HOUSE” SS18 Collection

For Heron Preston’s second collection, the designer developed pieces with a subversive sense of humor. Preston dipped into his personal history to create a graphics-heavy, referential collection inspired by kitsch and fine art, from Jeff Koons’s ceramic sculptures to the designer’s own memories of paintings in display homes in the Northern California suburbs. This season also marks the debut of Heron Preston womenswear, presented alongside the men’s collection.

For more information Heron Preston, please visit the designer’s website here

Frank And Oak presents the other 9 to 5 with Tegan and Sara

Inspired by classic menswear tailoring, Frank and Oak’s  women’s suiting collection was designed to reinvent the familiar 9 to 5 office aesthetic. Canadian musicians and face of the collection,Tegan and Sara, know a thing or two about breaking away from mainstream fashion standards. “We believe that mixing and matching feminine and masculine silhouettes is for anybody,” says the indie pop duo. “We aren’t afraid to look pretty or be styled in a feminine way, however the gender juxtaposition of this collection is very important to us.” Starting their careers in an era of rigid societal expectations, Tegan and Sara thrived on the support and respect they received from their fans, which empowered them to embrace their unique, androgynous style and rectify conventional fashion norms.

The 5 sku line features modern silhouettes, constructed in a stretch-wool flannel-blend fabric for a sophisticated, yet edgy look. Pair the pieces for a polished head-to-toe uniform or mix and match with wardrobe basics and put your own personal spin on it. Each style was created for day-to-night versatility, whether that be from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. or in the case of Tegan and Sara,9 p.m. to 5 a.m.!

LFW – Haizhen Wang prepares us for continual transfer

 

In times when the immigration crises are dramatically growing across the world, designers’ voices become more inspiring than ever. Fashion is a reflection of the times that we live in, and yesterday Haizhen Wang nailed the message.

‘In Transit’ was the name of the AW17 collection that the young designer presented at the Swiss Church during London Fashion Week. The whole presentation embodied a philosophical view on the idea of fashion as a product of transition. Nothing new, but something worth a word, or an image in this case.

The models walking in between cardboard boxes showed slogan badges reading ‘fragile,’ ‘handle with care,’ ‘priority,’ and ‘air eligible.’ A statement of, not only the underrated sense of stability in the fashion industry but also behind human transit.

Ever since he graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in Womenswear and established is own brand in 2010, in London, Haizhen Wang has been mastering the art of deconstruction in fashion design. Raw edges and gender fluidity – or ‘masculine femininity’ in his words – are the essence of his work.

Oversized peplum corsets wrapped the waistlines with extra long seat belts, as we would tie up our luggage. Another hint to the idea of transition that reflects the talent of Haizhen Wang as a designer, and as a communicator.

The key elements of his AW17 collection: warm earth tones such as dark blues, red, black, ochre and khaki, and flat double wools as the star fabric. The cut? Sharp tailored pieces to dress an incredibly self-confident woman, almost, as strong as Haizhen’s voice.

Photography courtesy of Haizhen Wang

LFW – Spanish Heritage at Emilio de la Morena

This season, Emilio de la Morena develops his aesthetic in a direction that is in turn more refined and playful. He draws inspiration from his Spanish heritage and his life in London. The exuberance and flamboyance of Valencia and Picasso’s colour combinations in his late-cubist portraits meet the sharp tailoring of London’s unsung couturiers of the eighties and etherealness of the new romantics to produce a collection of eveningwear that is elegant but also electric.

Silhouettes are figure-hugging and hip-length or float to the ground. Evening gowns are draped about the body. Precisely tailored jackets are cut lose, nipped at the waist and have exaggerated peplums that accentuate the shape of the body, and paired with fitted flared trousers.

Bodycon cocktail dresses have a similarly assured sexuality and feature cut-outs around the torse and lace panels.

Spanish fabrics and techniques abound. Flounces in bonded silk accentuate the body and suiting is in a rich striped jacquard milled for the brand in Valencia.

Lace is a dominant texture. It is layered with more lace, over polka dot, metallic jacquard as well as being used against the skin in the form of sleeves and panels, playing with the ways in which garments reveal and obscure. Gazar, taffeta and tulle create structure and body. Outwear is in mohair.

As always, colour and colour-combining is key. Petrol, cerise, fuchsia and emerald provide strong tones and pastels in pink, and mint strike softer notes.


Photography and Text: Courtesy of Emilio de la Morena