Frank And Oak presents the other 9 to 5 with Tegan and Sara

Inspired by classic menswear tailoring, Frank and Oak’s  women’s suiting collection was designed to reinvent the familiar 9 to 5 office aesthetic. Canadian musicians and face of the collection,Tegan and Sara, know a thing or two about breaking away from mainstream fashion standards. “We believe that mixing and matching feminine and masculine silhouettes is for anybody,” says the indie pop duo. “We aren’t afraid to look pretty or be styled in a feminine way, however the gender juxtaposition of this collection is very important to us.” Starting their careers in an era of rigid societal expectations, Tegan and Sara thrived on the support and respect they received from their fans, which empowered them to embrace their unique, androgynous style and rectify conventional fashion norms.

The 5 sku line features modern silhouettes, constructed in a stretch-wool flannel-blend fabric for a sophisticated, yet edgy look. Pair the pieces for a polished head-to-toe uniform or mix and match with wardrobe basics and put your own personal spin on it. Each style was created for day-to-night versatility, whether that be from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. or in the case of Tegan and Sara,9 p.m. to 5 a.m.!

LFW – Haizhen Wang prepares us for continual transfer

 

In times when the immigration crises are dramatically growing across the world, designers’ voices become more inspiring than ever. Fashion is a reflection of the times that we live in, and yesterday Haizhen Wang nailed the message.

‘In Transit’ was the name of the AW17 collection that the young designer presented at the Swiss Church during London Fashion Week. The whole presentation embodied a philosophical view on the idea of fashion as a product of transition. Nothing new, but something worth a word, or an image in this case.

The models walking in between cardboard boxes showed slogan badges reading ‘fragile,’ ‘handle with care,’ ‘priority,’ and ‘air eligible.’ A statement of, not only the underrated sense of stability in the fashion industry but also behind human transit.

Ever since he graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in Womenswear and established is own brand in 2010, in London, Haizhen Wang has been mastering the art of deconstruction in fashion design. Raw edges and gender fluidity – or ‘masculine femininity’ in his words – are the essence of his work.

Oversized peplum corsets wrapped the waistlines with extra long seat belts, as we would tie up our luggage. Another hint to the idea of transition that reflects the talent of Haizhen Wang as a designer, and as a communicator.

The key elements of his AW17 collection: warm earth tones such as dark blues, red, black, ochre and khaki, and flat double wools as the star fabric. The cut? Sharp tailored pieces to dress an incredibly self-confident woman, almost, as strong as Haizhen’s voice.

Photography courtesy of Haizhen Wang

LFW – Spanish Heritage at Emilio de la Morena

This season, Emilio de la Morena develops his aesthetic in a direction that is in turn more refined and playful. He draws inspiration from his Spanish heritage and his life in London. The exuberance and flamboyance of Valencia and Picasso’s colour combinations in his late-cubist portraits meet the sharp tailoring of London’s unsung couturiers of the eighties and etherealness of the new romantics to produce a collection of eveningwear that is elegant but also electric.

Silhouettes are figure-hugging and hip-length or float to the ground. Evening gowns are draped about the body. Precisely tailored jackets are cut lose, nipped at the waist and have exaggerated peplums that accentuate the shape of the body, and paired with fitted flared trousers.

Bodycon cocktail dresses have a similarly assured sexuality and feature cut-outs around the torse and lace panels.

Spanish fabrics and techniques abound. Flounces in bonded silk accentuate the body and suiting is in a rich striped jacquard milled for the brand in Valencia.

Lace is a dominant texture. It is layered with more lace, over polka dot, metallic jacquard as well as being used against the skin in the form of sleeves and panels, playing with the ways in which garments reveal and obscure. Gazar, taffeta and tulle create structure and body. Outwear is in mohair.

As always, colour and colour-combining is key. Petrol, cerise, fuchsia and emerald provide strong tones and pastels in pink, and mint strike softer notes.


Photography and Text: Courtesy of Emilio de la Morena

LFW – Seduction and the look of love at Roland Mouret

“This collection is about living for the one you love, and taking the risks that you have to take for that love,” said Roland Mouret backstage right after the presentation of his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection at the National Theatre, in London.

It was grey Sunday when on the 20th anniversary of his career, the French designer returned to London, the city where he started his journey in the fashion industry. After that many times showcasing his collections in Paris, this was a paradox full of meaning, and he made it clearer when revealing “I had to come back to remember why I still love fashion and who I am as a designer.”

Minutes before the show started, an entire array of editors and big names from the industry couldn’t hide their excitement and expectation. Everybody was there, and, of course, the most VIP’s filled up the front row. Fashion oracles such as Tim Blanks and Suzy Menkes had their notebooks ready – and phone in Suzy’s case as she is a Social Media avid user -, and the founder of Net-A-Porter Natalie Massenet chatted with her friend Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council. The British Vogue team? None of the titans missed the show. A bench just for them where we were able to spot: the soon-to-be former Editor-in-Chief, Alexandra Shulman, Deputy Editor Emily Sheffield (who might be the one replacing Alexandra), Fashion Director Lucinda Chambers, and the incredibly stylish Sarah Harris, Fashion Features Director. All of them were there and, then, the show started.

The theme of the collection was, clearly, love and seduction, and elements from the iconic Galaxy dress were updated for 2017. Gold Diamond mesh knits, off-shoulder dresses, and metallic sheer knits were part of the reinterpretation of the dress that Roland Mouret designed ten years ago. Victoria Beckham, Cameron Díaz, Scarlett Johansson and Nigella Lawson, are part of the women who fell in love with the sexy confidence that the Galaxy has injected, and what remains intact in the designer’s work.

Is that confidence the result of the sense of utility and engagement that Roland Mouret has with the women that he designs for. The models looked strong and powerful as opposed to “foolish and stupid,” in Suzy Menkes’ words. Fluid and soft fabrics like hammered satin or velvet added the sophisticated touch to a collection made to celebrate maturity in love, and life. The colour palette ranged from dark shades like navy, charcoal or black, to Pacific blue, clementine, and silver.

With 38 looks, Roland Mouret also created a story about taking risks and being willing to face the best and worst on our journey. A contrast present in some pieces made out of double wool crepe coats, and wool twill jackets. Soft, yet stable.

The whole collection was a visual juxtaposition between seduction and serenity, and encapsulated the essential ingredients for anyone who dares to wear the look of love.

Photography Courtesy of London Fashion Week