“This collection is about living for the one you love, and taking the risks that you have to take for that love,” said Roland Mouret backstage right after the presentation of his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection at the National Theatre, in London.
It was grey Sunday when on the 20th anniversary of his career, the French designer returned to London, the city where he started his journey in the fashion industry. After that many times showcasing his collections in Paris, this was a paradox full of meaning, and he made it clearer when revealing “I had to come back to remember why I still love fashion and who I am as a designer.”
Minutes before the show started, an entire array of editors and big names from the industry couldn’t hide their excitement and expectation. Everybody was there, and, of course, the most VIP’s filled up the front row. Fashion oracles such as Tim Blanks and Suzy Menkes had their notebooks ready – and phone in Suzy’s case as she is a Social Media avid user -, and the founder of Net-A-Porter Natalie Massenet chatted with her friend Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council. The British Vogue team? None of the titans missed the show. A bench just for them where we were able to spot: the soon-to-be former Editor-in-Chief, Alexandra Shulman, Deputy Editor Emily Sheffield (who might be the one replacing Alexandra), Fashion Director Lucinda Chambers, and the incredibly stylish Sarah Harris, Fashion Features Director. All of them were there and, then, the show started.
The theme of the collection was, clearly, love and seduction, and elements from the iconic Galaxy dress were updated for 2017. Gold Diamond mesh knits, off-shoulder dresses, and metallic sheer knits were part of the reinterpretation of the dress that Roland Mouret designed ten years ago. Victoria Beckham, Cameron Díaz, Scarlett Johansson and Nigella Lawson, are part of the women who fell in love with the sexy confidence that the Galaxy has injected, and what remains intact in the designer’s work.
Is that confidence the result of the sense of utility and engagement that Roland Mouret has with the women that he designs for. The models looked strong and powerful as opposed to “foolish and stupid,” in Suzy Menkes’ words. Fluid and soft fabrics like hammered satin or velvet added the sophisticated touch to a collection made to celebrate maturity in love, and life. The colour palette ranged from dark shades like navy, charcoal or black, to Pacific blue, clementine, and silver.
With 38 looks, Roland Mouret also created a story about taking risks and being willing to face the best and worst on our journey. A contrast present in some pieces made out of double wool crepe coats, and wool twill jackets. Soft, yet stable.
The whole collection was a visual juxtaposition between seduction and serenity, and encapsulated the essential ingredients for anyone who dares to wear the look of love.
Photography Courtesy of London Fashion Week