Fashion Trend Report: New York and London Spring 2018

After a grueling few seasons, it’s good to see how New York and London have finally started to batten down the hatches and weather the storm that’s been pummeling the industry for quite some time now. With so many of the world’s most talked about brands closing doors or downsizing dramatically, it’s reassuring to finally see these fashion capitals reinvent themselves to push forward. And luckily for the fashion loving crowds of the world, with innovation and change come new trends that will paint the market and influence what the everyday retail fashion will see for the rest of the year. Here are some of New York and Londons best trends for Spring!

Tomato Soup & Lemonade

Bright colours reigned this Spring season. But above all the jewel tones and pastel that walked the runway, it was tomato red and lemon yellow that reigned supreme. New York seemed to have started the trend, with more than a handful of designers sending bright tomato red pieces down the runway with a ton of success. Across the pond, Londoners were treated to a healthy dose of vitamin C, with designers opting for bright and tart lemon yellow instead of red as their statement colour. The great thing about having warm pop colours for this spring is that fashion can now move away from the pastel trend that’s taken hold of Spring the last few seasons. Giving fashion lovers a bright alternative to whispy delicate spring hues when the warmer weather arrives once again.

Peek-A-Boo

To no one’s surprise, last year’s biggest trend was carried over to this season. Sheer clothing managed to sweep the runways once again this season, with almost every designer incorporating sheer garments into their collections. Both London and New York had their fair share of sheer frocks and two pieces, with designers choosing either sheer fabric or lace to create an alluring silhouette that oozes sensuality and delicateness. Now what you can get away with on the runway v.s. what’s practical for everyday can sometimes be two very different things. Fortunately, wearing the sheer trend doesn’t have to mean wearing a head to toe sheer dress or a translucent jumpsuit. Instead, opt for a sheer lace blazer or sheer silk blouse to create the same effect for a more everyday look.

Power Shoulder, Power Sleeve

Call them what you want (puff sleeves are probably the easiest generalization) but the dramatic ’80s sleeve and shoulder are back and stronger than ever, and they graced the runways of New York and London’s runways this season. The choice to bring the puff sleeves back from the dead most likely stemmed from last year’s high and fast fashion industries’ obsession with bell sleeves and elongated sleeves. However, the addition of puff sleeves to the extravagant sleeve family adds a touch of vintage glamour, straight out of the mid-80s’s most popular girl’s wardrobe.

DenimDenimDenim

For the past two years, denim has been the be-all-end-all in popular fashion. During London and New York, denim took a more decorative turn with destroyed and reworked denim. In London, elongated denim jackets created a beautifully elegant silhouette with an alternative and modern twist; in New York, ripped denim was paired with elegant evening outfits, creating a new wave of eveningwear that’s sure to end up as the go-to night-out outfit for many of the fashion world’s social media elites.

Fairytale Eleganza

Every season has its fair share of over the top, highly stylized gowns. However, this season seemed to up the ruffle factor by creating fairytale gowns fit for any princess. Many of the gowns featured this season’s hottest colours, while others featured stunning floral patterns and beautifully sheer fabrics, which all fell in line with the season’s trends. The gowns recreate the old-world fairytale silhouettes that feel as though they’ve come straight out of the world’s greatest stories. In New York, designers opted for more romantic stylings, trading in modern flair for a more vintage and sheer alternative to evening gowns; London chose to feature more contemporary versions of old-world looks, featuring brighter colours and far more modern silhouettes, while still adhering to the aesthetics of the inspiration.

Fragrances you’ll love all year around

Choosing the perfect year around fragrance can sometimes be the most difficult beauty decision one has to make. Feminine fragrances tend to be too sweet for everyone’s tastes, men’s fragrances tend to be far too spicy or woody, and unisex fragrances tend to underwhelm. However, there are a few fragrances that stand out as not only interesting, but they also perfectly move from summer to winter without creating a jarring wall of scent.

Masculine

Maison Margiela: Replica Soul of the Forrest

Photo: Sephora

$200.00  @ Sephora | Soul of the Forest encapsulates the strength and severity of strong woods and leafy forest greens. Many fragrances claim to encompass the fresh and familiar scent of a walk in the forest, but Maison Margiela‘s Replica fragrance perfectly recreates the smell of a dense forest that glistens with the faint sparkling of a sun shower’s remnants. It is packed with strong notes of balsam fir, cedar, and incense, creating an intoxicating masculine scent that edges ever so slightly into gender neutral territory.

Atelier Cologne: Sud Magnolia

Photo: Sephora

$145.00 @ Sephora | Atelier Cologne‘s Sud Magnolia may not be the first for a masculine fragrance at first glance, however, the light Magnolia scent is wrapped beautifully in tart citrus notes of pomelo and bitter orange, giving the scent a sweet yet hard bite that meshes perfectly with the elegant and warm scent of southern Magnolia. Perfect for cold winter days that need a warm pick me up or warm summer days that require a familiar summer sweetness.

 


Gender Neutral

CLEAN: Cool Cotton

Photo: Sephora

$95. 00 @ Sephora | One of the most pleasing scents available on the market is the unisex fragrance CLEAN Cool Cotton, which boasts a beautifully pure and impressive aroma of clean countryside cotton. Imagine leaving your house like the freshest breeze of the wind you’ve ever smelt; like a sweeping hillside cinematic moment captured in a small glass flacon. That’s the beauty of this lemon peel, cotton, and mint concoction. It’s also slightly more cost effective than many other options on this list!

Tom Ford: Mandarino Di Amalfi

Photo: Sephora

$172.00 @ Sephora | One of Tom Ford‘s best selling and most appreciated sscents is Mandarino Di Amalfi. It conjures up images of the fresh Mediterranean coast. An image of inviting sea water, white sailed sail boats, tan bodies, and the freshness of a citrus orchard under the sun all come crashing together in this stunning confection. The absolutely fresh unisex is made possible by the presence of grapefruit, lemon, and orange blossom.

 


Feminine

L’Artisan Parfumeur: Les Chasse Aux Papillons

Photo: Sephora

$170.00 @ Sephora | Florals are a sure fire way of capturing a soft and feminine scent that isn’t overly sweet or childish. The playfully elegant and entrancing Les Chasse Aux Pipillons by L’Artisan Parfumeur aims at bottling a memory rather than a scent. Instead of bottling the literal, Papillons is a blend of tuberose, linden blossom, and jasmine, which carries a memory rather than just a fixed scent. Unlike other florals, Papillons’s transports the wearer back to their childhood of butterfly chasing in a lush fragrant meadow bathed in sunlight.

Guerlain: Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita

Photo: Sephora

$78.00 @ Sephora | Guerlains Pera Granita is a scent built on the more light and effervescent side of the fragrance spectrum. With sparkling grapefruit, pear, and lemon, this tart scent perfectly compliments high summer and adds an aromatic and invigorating zest to the winter months. However, this can be a tad bit sweet depending on personal preference, but nothing compares to the tarty bitterness of grapefruit in the morning. Think of it as breakfast for your body!

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How to Wear Fashionable and Protective Eyewear

Ray-Ban Round Double Bridge $235

Most people buy sunglasses because they look good and keep the sun from blinding them while they sit by the pool or sip beers on a patio. But, little did we know, there are a lot more benefits to wearing sunglasses than just the “chic” factor.

Besides the obvious benefit of helping you see on a sunny day, sunglasses help protect you from permanent eye damage. “Sunglasses are important because they filter out UV and visible light,” says Dr. Janet Prystowsky. Both UV rays and visible light in the blue spectrum are what can cause permanent eye damage. “Sunglasses can also help minimize photodamage to the skin around your eyes.” Photodamage, the deterioration of sun-exposed skin, can cause wrinkles, age spots, and skin cancer.

Dr. Prystowsky’s moral of the story: anytime you should be wearing sunscreen, you should also be wearing sunglasses.

What to look for

With so many eyewear options out there, it’s hard to know what exactly to look for when shopping for sunglasses. According to Dr. Prystowsky, there are two major factors to keep in mind the next time you’re looking to purchase some new shades.

  1. Look for sunglasses that say they block 99-100% of UV rays
  2. Those that claim absorption up to 400nm

Make sure your sunglasses come with UV protection, because not all sunglasses do! When trying on different sizes and shapes, keep in mind that wrap around shades or wide temples will offer additional protection around the periphery as well. You can find proper protective sunglasses online or in many sports stores or sunglasses shops. Don’t let the prices fool you! Just because the price tag is high, doesn’t mean your shades will be doing you any favours. You can find a good inexpensive pair of sunglasses for under $15!

Having trouble finding some fashionable and protective sunglasses? Here are a few to help!

Quay Australia Paradiso 52mm Cat Eye Sunglasses $69

Tom Ford Sean Sunglasses $525

Celebrating 2016’s Top Models Of Colour!

As fashion takes bolder and more progressive steps, designers are now becoming more fluid in the way they plan their runway shows and campaigns. In the last few seasons, designers have now incorporated more models of colour into their creative processes than ever before. With models hailing from all over the world, never before has there been more representation among racial and cultural minorities within the fashion industry. Designers are now finally understanding and accepting the beauty that has been all around them for so many years. And for that same reason, Novella is compiling a go-to – in no particular order – list of the most successful and celebrated models of colour of 2016!

Photo: Models.com / Zara

Lineisy Monteiro

Hailing from the Dominican Republic, Lineisy Montero broke onto the scene in early 2015. Being booked for everything from Prada to Dior, Louis Vuitton to Celine. Her iconic debut at Prada instantly landed her a coveted spot in Prada’s fall/ winter 2015 campaign, solidifying her as a Prada girl. Since then, Lineisy has walked every major show in the world’s fashion capitols, as well as landing coveted spots on countless fashion magazine covers. Recently, Lineisy was chosen to star in campaigns for Chanel, Givenchy, and H&M. However, her most amazing feat is the whopping 219 shows she’s walked in since her début. Making her one of the most in demand models  on the runway in recent times.

Photo: Models.com / Tom Ford

Mica Arganaraz

With an astounding 23 campaigns under her belt for 2016 alone, Argentinian Mica Arganaraz has swept the fashion industry this year. With her signature messy fringe becoming one of the most copied and coveted hairstyles of the year, Mica has dominated this year’s “cool girl” trend category. Since her debut, Mica has become a permanent staple in Paris couture shows, having walked everything from Chanel to Valentino. On top of all of her work so far, Arganaraz has 24 editorials under her belt for 2016 as well as being the only girl to star in a Prada campaign solo since model icon Sasha Pivovarova.

Photo: Models.com / Bobbi Brown

Bhumika Arora

India’s newest model sensation has been sweeping runways, and the hearts of fashion lovers around the world in 2016. Her strong bone structure and striking eyes have won over dozens of fashion heavy weights this year. Earning a coveted spot in Bobbi Brown’s fall/ winter 2016 ad campaign, as well as spots in major magazines like Teen Vogue, Vogue Italia, and W. In terms shows, Bhumika walked a healthy number of shows this season for the likes of Elsa Schiaparelli, Balmain, Chanel Cruise, and Armani Prive; establishing her as one of the most recognisable and in demand models of the year.

Photo: Models.com / Marcs

Fernanda Ly

Louis Vuitton’s it girl has been winning over the fashion world this year. After highlighting Nicolas Ghesquiere’s first show for Louis Vuitton, Ly has gone on to walk every Louis Vuitton show since. Apart from the shows she’s walked for Vuitton, Fernanda has starred in every “Series” themed ad campaign for Louis Vuitton since her debut for the brand. In terms of international work, Fernanda has graced the covers of countless fashion magazines like Vogue China, Vogue Japan, L’Officiel Malaysia, and CR Fashion Book. Another important staple in Fernanda’s career for 2016 is the coveted H&M holiday campaign. Which not only comes with a great deal of exposure, but a hefty paycheck as well!

Photo: Models.com / Balmain

Joan Smalls

From runway darling, to blue chip campaign powerhouse. Joan Smalls has become one of the most recognisable models of colour in recent years. Having quickly climbed through the ranks of models in the fashion industry since her debut. Joan is no stranger to booking high-profile campaigns and shows, with the most recent being the coveted Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. But her presence isn’t only reserved for commercial work these days. Joan still nabs highly sought after campaigns from the biggest designers around the world like Givenvhy, Marc Jacobs, Balmain, and Moschino. Joan has also dominated the editorial game this year, with stunning editorials for LOVE, Vogue, Glamour, I-D, and W, to name a few.

Photo: Models.com / Topshop

Imaan Hammam

Nothing says “in demand” like a beauty contract and Imaan Hammam has just that! Having landed a priceless beauty contract with make-up heavyweight Shiseido, Hammam is quickly showing the fashion world that she has staying power and star power. The highly sought after model has also landed multiple campaigns for the likes of H&M, Topshop, and Givenchy, as well as an astounding line-up of runway shows including Nina Ricci, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Tom Ford, and Mugler. In terms of editorials, Imaan is sweeping the ranks, with 5 editorials in American Vogue in only 3 months.

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“When do we want it? NOW!”

With women’s fashion month in its final stretch for the spring/summer 2017 season, we couldn’t help but touch on the topic of the season, see now buy now! For those of you who may not be in the loop, the “see now, buy now” model is as simple as it sounds. Collections are shown on runways in the fashion capitals and are immediately available for sale following the show. As more and more designers (Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff, Ralph Lauren, Alexander Wang x Adidas, Moschino, Michael Kors, and Proenza Schouler to name a few) jump on the bandwagon we wanted to see if this new business model has been successful or whether the hype is all for nothing.

One of the first brands to adopt the model was Burberry. Starting off last February having select pieces such as bags and scarves from their Fall/Winter 2016 collection available online following their show. This time around the brand decided to go full force and have the entire collection available not only in stores, but also on Snapchat, WeChat, Kakao and Facebook Messenger (where the show was live streamed)!

Burberry "Seasonless" Collection
Burberry “Seasonless” Collection

Now let’s talk about Tommy. If you didn’t hear about the Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid collaboration you must be living under a rock! This season was huge for Tommy… literally. Tommy Hilfiger converted Pier 16 in New York City into a two-day carnival (one day for the runway show, the second day open to the public) and this show TOOK OVER social media!

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Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid

Standard to most shows during fashion week, Tommy live streamed the coveted show at the “Tommy Pier” located at South Street Seaport in downtown Manhattan and made the collection available for sale immediately following the show. As you can just imagine with the power of technology and social media, the collection was almost completely sold out shortly after it’s debut. So this new see now, buy now model is a success after all?! At least for Tommy it was but here is why. Take an Instagram famous super model, pump up fans for the upcoming event (and that it is open to the public the next day for one day only!!!) build an Instagram-savvy show space (which IRL was amazing, FYI) and design a collection with pieces that are seasonless, affordable, and wearable to the general public and you have the equation to the see now buy now model! Not only was this a success for the Tommy x Gigi collection but this event caused such a boom in sales, that almost all items available on the Tommy Hilfiger website sold out or were left with very limited quantities.

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Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid

Rebecca Minkoff also took part in the new model, showing her latest collection on the sidewalk outside of her Soho store location making it ever so easy for her guest to shop the collection right after the show. Not only did she make it easy, Minkoff’s collection was worn by both models and influencers on the runway and half of the guest at her show were customers. R.M. also released that the previous season’s see now buy now show generated a 200% increase in sales that month!

Rebecca Minkoff show outside Soho store.
Rebecca Minkoff show outside Soho store.

Another success story comes from none other than Mr.Wang himself. Alexander Wang surprised guests with his Adidas capsule collection following his show in New York on September 10th with no prior announcement of the collaboration. Following his show, Alexander hosted a festival themed afterparty to celebrate the collection alongside his celebrity-filled guest list. Wang made the collection that isn’t scheduled to hit stores until spring, available in various locations around NYC and other cities in pop-up trucks where fans lined up for hours before the truck even arrived at the location! Are we seeing the pattern here? Affordable, wearable, involve public figures that people look up too and this seems to be how the see now buy now model works, am I right? A new element Wang added to his equation is the element of scarcity. Having the collection available for only a select amount of hours at select locations makes the collection even more desirable than just seeing it on super models!

Alexander Wang x Adidas Originals
Alexander Wang x Adidas Originals

Now with all these success stories you must be wondering how can this work for everyone? Well it didn’t work so well for a few and it isn’t the right approach for all designers. Look at Tom Ford for example. As we discussed a component necessary to the see now buy now approach is “seasonless” clothing. Ford’s latest collection was what he called “fall/winter 2016” presenting clothing for the colder months ahead including fur coats and turtlenecks, which don’t get me wrong were amazing, but are not what one is looking to wear immediately following the show, on the last few days of summer. Another element to the equation is price. The see now buy now model tests the impulsive behaviour in us all. That being said, we have to be able to justify spending a decent amount of money in that very moment. Unfortunately, a fur coat worth thousands of dollars is simply not everyone’s typical impulsive purchase.

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Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2016

What does this mean for the industry? That we will have to wait and see, as the model has already forced changes in the way things work. For example, buyers now must secretly make their way into showrooms where they view collection months before their runway debuts (and sign non-disclosures, of course) in order for it to be for sale following the brand’s runway show. Not only this, but fashion shows are likely to only become larger and larger! As we learned, the see now buy now equation calls for a large production that the public will rave about! Great job Tommy!

Although this all may seem like a new phenomenon, one brand has mastered this approach and been using this business model for years. Swedish brand H&M! Each year, H&M announces a new designer collaboration that typically has a runway show or presentation hours or just days before the collection is available to the public. The collection is relatively affordable and only available while quantities last! H&M never seems to fail using the see now buy now equation even adding in a few extra components, making it a huge publicity stunt and adding the high-end designer prestige! H&M is set to release their next collaboration this coming November with Paris designer KENZO!

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H&M X KENZO