Back in July, I had the chance to attend and cover shows during New York Fashion Week Men’s, and, even though the heat and humidity sometimes made me regret it, the many talented designers I got to witness firsthand was worth the trip.
To switch things up, I gave talented local artist Fredsonn Silva Aguda images of ten of my favourite looks from the week and asked him to illustrate them for this article. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
Ever since Raf Simons was appointed the creative director of Calvin Klein, New Yorkers have been able to witness his genius at home. The designer took his spring/summer 2018 collection to the streets underneath a bridge in the heart of Chinatown. The location hinted at Blade Runner’s influence on the collection.Chinese lanterns hung from the ceiling emblazoned with the art of Peter Saville, who famously did album art for Joy Division and New Order. Raf continued to play with proportions as seen in previous collections, but maybe due to the location and its atmosphere, this collection seemed new but nevertheless still undoubtedly Raf.
Robert Geller’s newly launched Gustav von Aschenbach was a bit pared down from his namesake collection and offered oversized coats, jackets, and pants of varying widths and lengths made from high-grade Japanese textiles. I have been a HUGE fan of Geller’s for some time now and was excited to see his new endeavor up close. This look illustrated by Fredsonn was one of my favourites shown in the collection.
Another highlight from the week was designer Raul Lopez’s gender-bending and boundary pushing Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Luar. The collection took me back to my ’90s club kid days, but, styled differently, its pieces could be completely wearable (for some at least) today.
Although when I first saw this look at Palmiers du Mal’s presentation at the Gramercy Park Hotel it was hard to imagine being able to wear this look in spring and summer, as we all know mother nature often likes to toy with our emotions. It can be feel like Hades one day and the next it could snow. Either way this look could be worn whenever necessary and will keep you cozy and looking good.
I fell in love with the way designer Emily Bode mixed different patterns and textures for her debut Spring/Summer 2018 collection. The collection’s vintage feel still felt modern and you won’t have to dig through a bunch of clothes at your local vintage shop to look this good.
Raun LaRose ’80s inspired Spring/Summer 2018 collection felt more today than dated. The oversized shapes of jackets and pants or, in this case, shorts paired with sheer knee-high socks and sneakers could have easily been seen on the attendees packed into the designer’s presentation or on the streets of New York.
During designers Vincent Oshin and William Watson of label Death To Tennis Spring/Summer 2018presentation, male models posed on pedestals and took selfies with camera phones, selfie sticks, and a polaroid camera. The collection offered great menswear staples including trench coats, tracksuits, sweats, T-shirts, and shorts.
Designer Barbara Sanchez Kane was inspired by her Mexican heritage and drew inspiration from life experiences for her Spring/Summer 2018 collection. This was definitely one of my many favourite looks from the collection.
Drawing inspiration from President John F. Kennedy and from travels during the presidential election in November of last year, designer Daisuke Obana offered everything from suits to preppy pieces perfect for summers on Martha’s Vineyard for his N.Hoolywood Spring 2018 collection.
’90s nostalgia was on full display for Patrick Ervell for his Spring 2018 collection. The collection included leather pants and shorts, trenchcoats and wind-breakers. At times the collection felt like it was missing something but true fans of the designer would be able to find pieces they have grown to love.
Fashion is a defining trait of our individuality. It allows us to express what we as humans feel on the inside, on the outside. Fashion has a way of changing out moods for the better and for the worst; in the same way, a beautiful dress can make you unimaginably beautiful but the wrong fit or colour could turn a dream into a nightmare. But that’s all easily fixed by throwing on your favourite sweater or pair of jeans.
If you’re anything like us here at Novella, you’ll know that style changes just as fast as a person’s day can. Luckily this season’s collections didn’t hold back on giving us new looks and styles to help transform and change ourselves into whatever and whomever we want to be. Here are some picks from the Novella team’s favourite fall/winter 2017 collections.
Drew Brown, Editor-in-Chief
Photo Credit: Vogue Runway. L to R Burberry, Gucci. Neil Barrett, Acne Studios
For his second See now, buy now collection for Burberry, Christopher Bailey drew inspiration from British sculptor Henry Moore. Bailey’s asymmetrical cut cable knit sweaters for both women and men were definite standouts from the collection.
Love it or hate it, Alessandro Michele’s new Gucci continues to not disappoint. Yes, on the runway the looks can seem a bit severe, however, picked apart there is something in the collection for everyone. This coat reminds me of a coat my mom wore back in the 70s which had an astrakhan collar. I would secretly put on my mom’s coat to play dress up. My love for fashion started at a young age and Gucci’s F/W ’17 brought back great memories.
Keeping with nostalgia theme, designer Neil Barrett drew inspiration from 80s music from The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Echo and the Bunnymen which was the soundtrack to youth. The collection was filled with precision tailoring and leather jackets that paid homage to the era but still modern for today. What I love most of the about this look and everything from the collection, Barrett has a way of creating chic menswear that allows the person wearing the clothes to appear effortless but still look well put together.
Looking back at all the collections, there were a lot completely wearable clothes sent down the runway and less over-the-top experimentation. With the constant musical chairs taken place at the major houses and the current political climate, this was not necessarily a bad thing. For fall, Acne Studios focused on menswear wardrobe staples and played with proportions. I picked a more slim look from the collection and I could I totally see my rocking this outfit to any event.
Chris Zaghi, Fashion Editor
If anyone has ever met me personally, they’ll know exactly how much I love powder blue. Every time I see the colour, I’m transported to an alien world of white fluffy clouds, clear skies, a warm breeze, and a bed of powder blue flowers all around me. So you can image my utter delight when I laid my eyes on this head to toe powder blue outfit. It looks bright, comfy, and light as air. And the edition of the bright peek of lemon yellow adds that tiny break in colour that the outfit needs to come together.
Palmiers Du Mal
I’ve never been one to enjoy formal wear. Just the thought of having to wear a blazer, or worse, a full suit, makes me cringe. Luckily men’s fashion is changing in such a way that what once deemed unfit for a more formal occasion, can now be worn as an alternative to the suit. At Palmiers Du Mal, a summery alternative to the traditional suit is presented in the form of a relaxed pant and a silky-velvety single buttoned shirt that has all the flair of a wealthy South American millionaire, without the hassle of a tight pant and blazer.
Who Is It?
One of the greatest joys of working in the fashion industry is the plethora of different places you can find extremely well-made garments that suit anyone’s personal style. A perfect example of this is Who Is It? a brand that hails all the way from Ukraine, making it’s at Kiev Fashion week. Now some may think it’s a bit ridiculous to stray so far from the fashion capitals to find something to wear, but that’s where I see the beauty of it all, the beauty of finding something special in a place you’d least expect it. Another reason why I chose an outfit from Who Is It? comes down to the fact that I’ve just never really been one to lean towards dressing myself in a pristine fashion. I like my clothing to be a little light-hearted and casual, and that’s exactly what Who Is It? gives their customers. A slightly kitschy take on today’s trends.
Walter Van Beirendonck
Now, this is no way the most wearable piece of clothing, but just take a moment to look at it. Take it all in. The scarf, the hat, the suit, the giant hands. The entire thing makes absolutely zero sense, but that’s the beauty of it! Wearing this would be like wearing a surrealist painting. Dali and Magritte would be so proud of me as I walked down the street swinging my massive fabric hands around willy-nilly.
Natasha Grodzinski, Contributing Writer
Area first came on my radar back in 2016, when their Pre-Fall campaign for that year was released. The campaign, shot by Charlotte Wales, featured soft lighting with highlighted sheen on jewel detailing. It was glam, and it was all over the Twitter. Since then, I’ve looked forward to seeing what Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg put out under the brand. Their use of vintage silhouettes with elegant touches makes them a favourite in my books, and I adored their F/W ’17 collection. These are the type of clothes I wish I could wear all the time.
In all honesty, I haven’t paid too much attention towards Roksanda in the past, most likely because I usually find myself been in a Burberry-induced haze. Their recent collection, however, really grabbed my attention. I liked nearly every look they sent down the runway, particularly with how Ilincic used voluminous shapes and draping to create the ultimate cold-weather looks. I had a difficult time picking a favourite design from the collection but finally decided on this one, mainly because I want that coat so badly.
I can’t really talk about the fall collections without talking about Gucci. We’re living in a Gucci world where the brand has found a resurgence in popularity and is a favourite amongst almost everyone I’ve talked to about their current favourite houses. Their F/W ’17 collection was quite interesting – to me, it felt almost like a “Gucci meta” collection. The self-awareness of the designs showed a play on consumer expectations and over-the-top patterning and accessorising. The show itself was such a spectacle of fashion and so weird that I barely remember what the venue looked like, or who saw in the front row. This look, in particular, stuck out in my mind, with the playful combination of colours and use of the classic Gucci tee, which we now see coming back into popularity in a huge way.
Nina Ricci’s collection was probably one of my favourites from PFW. It was so beautifully done, so well styled and had that Europe-in-Autumn romance vibe that is a bit difficult to articulate, but so easy to recognize when it is seen. I loved the use of colour and the clean tailoring done on the jackets and trousers. The point I’m trying to get at is I want everything from this collection, so if anyone from Nina Ricci is reading this, please hook ya girl up.
Claire Ball, Editorial Contributor
Photo Credit: Vogue Runway. L to R Yeezy, Balmain, Saint Laurent, Moschino.
One of my favourite ready-to-wear looks from this season was of course in the Yeezy Season 5 collection… shocker! Everyone knows I am a tomboy at heart. I am always drawn to boyish style like hoodies and baseball hats. I have never been much of a girly girl in my style, and this look made all my childhood tomboy dreams come true. The sweatshirt and hat with the hunting camo patterned pants and boots give me all the feels. I really identify with the tomboy look that the Yeezy collections always pull off so well. Yeezy always gets me.
The Balmain collection really stood out to me. The theme seemed to revolve around wild animals. There was a lot of animal prints and textures, as well as a lot of strong colours and shapes that together produced a sort of animal kingdom on the runway. One of my favourite looks pulled together a vintage looking wolf t-shirt layered over top of a long sleeved camo-style shirt and paired with a mini skirt and super-high boots.
This Saint Laurent was probably one of my favourites this season. The collection brought the sass to the runway. Designer Anthony Vaccarello’s sophomore show was a collection of my after-dark wardrobe dreams. All of the black velvet, shiny dark leather, deep v-necks and strong shoulders are what makes this collection feel dangerous. It’s strongly feminine without being overly romantic. I just love YSL.
I oddly fell in love with the mail packaging look Jeremy Scott gave the Moschino collection this season in Milan. Cardboard camel colour with packaging logos, stamps, and shipping tape really intrigued me. The reduce, reuse, recycle message was a different take on the logo-mania that has been infiltrating the runways. Nevertheless, Jeremy Scott has somehow found a way to make UPS delivery boxes simultaneously witty and chic.
Liat Neuman, Fashion Contributor
One of my favourite looks is the patchwork dress from Loewe FW17 collection. The designer knows exactly how to express femininity in a retro-contemporary kind of way. There is something extraordinary and sophisticated, yet defiantly wearable about this maxi shift dress. The relaxed silhouette along with the earthy hue and the matching mustard bag, evoke a modern feminine look with a touch of vintage feel.
The designer knows how to juggling between masculinity and femininity elements. Here is my favourite piece from FW17. I adore the retro conical bras underneath the structure top and the high waisted oversized pants. The sharp tailoring against the relaxed fit button delivers a strong message of confidence yet sexy femininity.
The collection gives a whole new meaning to ‘Minimalist Elegance ‘. The abstract prints, the one sleeved that expose a bare arm and the mixed of textures, there is no denial that daring and minimalism can go hand by hand and complete each other perfectly and create this bold approach.