10 Standout Looks From NYFW:Men’s

Back in July, I had the chance to attend and cover shows during New York Fashion Week Men’s, and, even though the heat and humidity sometimes made me regret it, the many talented designers I got to witness firsthand was worth the trip.

To switch things up, I  gave talented local artist Fredsonn Silva Aguda images of ten of my favourite looks from the week and asked him to illustrate them for this article. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

Ever since Raf Simons was appointed the creative director of Calvin Klein, New Yorkers have been able to witness his genius at home. The designer took his spring/summer 2018 collection to the streets underneath a bridge in the heart of Chinatown. The location hinted at Blade Runner’s influence on the collection. Chinese lanterns hung from the ceiling emblazoned with the art of Peter Saville, who famously did album art for Joy Division and New Order. Raf continued to play with proportions as seen in previous collections, but maybe due to the location and its atmosphere, this collection seemed new but nevertheless still undoubtedly Raf.

Robert Geller’s newly launched Gustav von Aschenbach was a bit pared down from his namesake collection and offered oversized coats, jackets, and pants of varying widths and lengths made from high-grade Japanese textiles. I have been a HUGE fan of Geller’s for some time now and was excited to see his new endeavor up close. This look illustrated by Fredsonn was one of my favourites shown in the collection.

Another highlight from the week was designer Raul Lopez’s gender-bending and boundary pushing Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Luar. The collection took me back to my ’90s club kid days, but, styled differently, its pieces could be completely wearable (for some at least) today.

Although when I first saw this look at Palmiers du Mal’s presentation at the Gramercy Park Hotel it was hard to imagine being able to wear this look in spring and summer, as we all know mother nature often likes to toy with our emotions. It can be feel like Hades one day and the next it could snow. Either way this look could be worn whenever necessary and will keep you cozy and looking good.

I fell in love with the way designer Emily Bode mixed different patterns and textures for her debut Spring/Summer 2018 collection. The collection’s vintage feel still felt modern and you won’t have to dig through a bunch of clothes at your local vintage shop to look this good.

Raun LaRose ’80s inspired Spring/Summer 2018 collection felt more today than dated. The oversized shapes of jackets and pants or, in this case, shorts paired with sheer knee-high socks and sneakers could have easily been seen on the attendees packed into the designer’s presentation or on the streets of New York.

During designers Vincent Oshin and William Watson of label Death To Tennis Spring/Summer 2018 presentation, male models posed on pedestals and took selfies with camera phones, selfie sticks, and a polaroid camera. The collection offered great menswear staples including trench coats, tracksuits, sweats, T-shirts, and shorts.

Designer Barbara Sanchez Kane was inspired by her Mexican heritage and drew inspiration from life experiences for her Spring/Summer 2018 collection. This was definitely one of my many favourite looks from the collection.

Drawing inspiration from President John F. Kennedy and from travels during the presidential election in November of last year, designer Daisuke Obana offered everything from suits to preppy pieces perfect for summers on Martha’s Vineyard for his N.Hoolywood Spring 2018 collection.

’90s nostalgia was on full display for Patrick Ervell for his Spring 2018 collection. The collection included leather pants and shorts, trenchcoats and wind-breakers. At times the collection felt like it was missing something but true fans of the designer would be able to find pieces they have grown to love.

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Recap: Fashion Week Beauty Trends

Fashion Weeks have come and gone, but we often forget the ingenuity of many designers within the presentation of their lines. A lot of work goes into presenting a product, with specific hair and make-up designs to accompany each model. We have pieced together some of our favourite beauty trends from New York, London, Paris, and Milan Fashion Weeks to inspire you through the coming months and set you on the right track.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

                  

COLORFUL CAT-EYE

Perhaps the most talked about beauty trend from NYFW, Prabal Gurung’s monochromatic cat-eye left us reminiscing on the days when we first attempted to recreate scenic visions of model makeup from the catwalk. While Diane Kendal has more precision with her styling, we reminisce on the early days we once spent in front of the mirror, playing with bold colours and patterns, hoping to copy the handiwork of industry professionals. Not only are we obsessed with the shape of this look, we are consumed by hues of sky blue, green, and orange. The models wore sleeked back hairstyles to accentuate this beauty trend. Gurung’s line was inspired by powerful women within his life and emphasized messages such as “We will not be silenced.” Not only did Gurung manage to present an ethereal physical beauty within his Fall 2017 line, he also inspired an inclusiveness and empowerment for women everywhere.                  

 

BOBS, BUZZ, & BOYCUTS

A major trend of New York Fashion week was found through shorter hairstyles ranging from precise bobs to buzz cuts. Alexander Wang beautifully displayed this trend and proved that women can rock boy cuts better than men. This display brought a nostalgia for the early 90’s and proved its timelessness. While long, luxurious hair has certainly been a desired trend for women everywhere, we often forget the power behind a bold, short haircut. For all those inspired to finally take their scissors and complete their long-awaited desire for a shorter do’ — we salute you.

LONDON FASHION WEEK

                   

SMUDGED LIPS

For all the times you have unsuccessfully or incorrectly applied your lipstick, you can now think of it as a style choice, rather than an unfortunate run-in with your applicator. For those who have spent a long night out on the town and caught a glimpse of yourself in the window of the McDonalds you often frequent in the early morning, this is for you. For women who are on-the-go and have daringly applied dark shades of lipstick on a moving subway car, or quickly in the back of a cab before a “chance” run in with your ex and his new boo, this is for you. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi makes “accidental make-up” a way of the future and celebrates cherry red lips with an indirect application.          

BLACK VELVET RIBBON

Emily Wickstead artistically reinvents the black ribbon within a half-up, half-down hair style. Also seen during Marchesa, the black velvet ribbon is a 2017 style trend that we can get behind. A staple to any collection, the ribbon brings a sophistication to a quick and easy hairstyle choice. The ribbon can be used as a ponytail, or, alternatively, it can be restyled as a choker.

PARIS FASHION WEEK

                 

HAIR HEADBANDS

At Issey Miyake, hair is multidimensional, and once you add temporary hair-dye, greatness is achieved through it. Taking inspiration from the Northern Lights, Pecis created a hair headband on his models by adding blue, purple and green hues. This style choice reflects different colours when the model walks the runway as the colour will shift in the light. Our childhood fantasies of having bright, shimmery hair have been envisioned into a precise hairstyle that is as beautiful as it is bold. For those looking for an edge this year, or if you are simply looking for a way to keep your hair out of your eyes, take note.               

FRESH FACE

A major trend throughout all fashion weeks was found in the “no-makeup, make-up look.” MUAs, designers, and models ditched their plentiful products and sought out a more natural, minimalistic canvas on their faces. Lanvin took note of this trend and brilliantly executed a fresh-faced design to his runway. While there are times in which we find solace in our layers of foundation, concealer, contour, and highlight, the “no make-up” trend is telling us to love the skin we are in.

MILAN FASHION WEEK

            

GLITTER LIPS

Gucci inspired an unexpected beauty trend that reinvents the way we see lipstick. Shying away from a staple red or pink lip, Gucci took a step in the right direction by inspiring a dark lip that compliments its Fall 2017 line. With an exaggerated cupid’s bow and an edge of glitter, Gucci makes our gothic dreams to a beautiful reality.

DEEP SIDE PART

Designers like Bottega Veneta and Salvatore Ferragamo took inspiration from a deep side part. Within Veneta’s collection, models were layered with jeweled hair pieces to accompany their perfectly styled hair. This classic hairstyle goes a long way with subtle accessories. Whether you decide to dress it up with an accessory or keep it simple, you can’t go wrong with this hairstyle.

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Trend Report: New York and London f/w17

New York and London have just finished presenting their takes on fashion’s fastest growing trends. Designers had their hands in everything from florals to plaid, creating a fashion wonderland for all to see and appreciate. However, not every trend was something worth cheering over and not every trend from last year had the staying power to push into this season. In spite of all of that, five trends managed to dominate the runway this season at NYFW and LFW. Some of them are interpretations and modernizations of trends that have been going strong for a little while now, while others are fresh and following the beat of what’s going on around them.

Here are the 5 trends that swept the stage during New York and London fashion weeks:

Modern Plaids

Marc Jacobs, J. JS Lee, Anna Sui, Osman | Photos: Vogue Runway

The staple print of the 1970’s is back again with a vengeance this season. After slowly sneaking into almost every collection under the sun over the past year, this season’s take on the iconic intersecting stripes seems to have a bit more bite to it.

It seems that mustard is the go-to plaid punch colour this season. Designers like Marc Jacobs and Osman have created their own takes on mustard plaid coats that look beautifully modern, yet nostalgically retro.

Now mustard may have been every plaid loving designer’s sweetheart this season, but many other designers opted for more neutral tones instead. At Anna Sui and J. JS. Lee, Prince of Wales check coats and suits came in simple yet punchy neutrals of black and tan that pumped the heritage look of the check with a little youthful pizzazz.

Protest Apparel

Creatures of Comfort, Gareth Pugh, Prabal Gurung, Ashish | Photos: Vogue Runway

Political injustices that have been sweeping across the United States has inspired a plethora of designers and artists to push past what’s been socially acceptable as a collection to create what are now being dubbed “protest collections.

This season has seen countless designers present their personal opinions against the current U.S. presidency by incorporating graphic and stylistic design elements into their collections. For example, graphic tees and sweatshirts were the highlights at Creatures of Comfort, Prabal Gurung, and Ashish. Models strutted down the runway in garments that either directly quoted many of Donald Trump’s ludicrous catchphrases or directly opposed them by sending messages of peace and empowerment.

However, one collection really stood out by breaking down walls and really pushing the boundary of what politically charged fashion can be. This season at Gareth Pugh, models were dressed in military inspired outfits that so closely resembled modern Nazi uniforms that it felt uncomfortable to even watch the show — which was Pugh’s brilliant intention. Model after model stormed the runway in haunting makeup and beautifully tailored military garb that represented Pugh’s vision of what America’s future may look like if a fascist government sinks its teeth into it for too long. The runway music was a cacophonous array of jumbled songs, speeches, and easily recognizable American media that mimicked CIA audios of torture used on prisoners. The collection did not break from a completely black colour scheme, only adding to the doom and gloom that Pugh wanted to express. In the end, the collection is a strong representation of creative visions that designers will start to express as the world around them become little less bright as time goes on.

Alternative Florals

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, Christopher Kane, Ryan Lo, Erdem | Photos: Vogue Runway

These aren’t your grandma’s delicate peony prints! Fall/Winter 2017 saw some of the most creative and downright unconventional floral prints seen to date. Colours were vibrant and outlandish, designs were ostentatious and gaudy, and the best part was that audiences loved every second of it.

Season after season, designers have slowly built up fashion lover’s appetite for more shocking floral prints. At Preen, one of the last biggest trends, the puffer coat was given a bright injection of watercolour florals. While at Christopher Kane, beautiful budding blooms exploded from simple slip dresses, adding a whimsical fairytale touch to the collection.

At Ryan Lo and Erdem, traditional English florals were spun into unconventional silhouettes to give a modern update to old world Victorian charm.

The Reimagined Suit

Theory, Thom Browne, Delpozo, Mulberry | Photos: Vogue Runway

Gone are the days of the 90’s power suit. Women now have a plethora of unique and interesting styles that are perfect for the boardroom. At Theory, Thom Browne, and Mulberry, plaids dominated. Adding a retro crispness to the modern suit. But the modern suit doesn’t just rely on a fresh print for an updated look.

At Mulberry and Delpozo, silhouettes were given exaggerated proportions to modernize the everyday suit’s silhouette. Broad shoulders and widened flared arms hark back to exaggerated Dynasty power suits, without leaving a tacky taste in your mouth.

However, the real winner has to be Thom Browne. For his fall 2017 collection, the master of suiting once again deconstructed the traditional suit and put it back together. Giving women the option of strong menswear-inspired looks as well as Edwardian era newspaper boy suits in whimsical gingham check. The collection presents an interesting take on the modern women’s suit. It showed that suiting doesn’t necessarily have to be cold and stoic — it can be interesting and even comical without taking away the commanding effect of the suit itself.

The New Trench

Derek Lam, Margaret Howell, The Row, MM6 Maison Margiela | Photos: Vogue Runway

It goes without saying that this season has been the season of the trench coat. Designers in every fashion capital have stormed the runway with their interpretations of floor-length trench coats, giving them modern updates, and unconventional silhouettes for the modern fashion aficionado to enjoy.

The most colourful of the bunch came from Derek Lam, who presented a lovely trench coat in red leather, conjuring up images of 1940’s Dick Tracey zoot suits. Meanwhile, Margaret Howell, The Row, and MM6 all opted for more traditional hues.

The most intriguing part of the modern trench coat is definitely the new proportions designers have given it. At The Row, trench coats were given extremely streamlined silhouettes by going sans buttons. While trenches at MM6, infused with traditional Japanese designs and tied at the waist with a very thin belt, almost resemble an unfinished kimono. Designs like these give the modern trench a fresh and exciting twist. This isn’t just your dad’s old London Fog coat anymore!

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New York Fashion Week f/w 2017: The Highlights

This season, fashion has entered a literal limbo. Many brands opted to show presentations and lookbooks rather than runway shows and others chose to leave their host cities to show elsewhere (we’re looking at you Proenza Schouler and La Perla). Apart from the chaos of fashion week itself, many designers were left with the task of creating collections that are not only relevant to today’s trends, but also relevant in response to the year’s unsteady and frightening beginning. The uncertain future of artistic freedom in the United States has made its impact on artists and designers around the world. Many have chosen to step back and tone down their collections for the sake of letting the important issues rise to the top, while others have stepped up to the task of opposing the current state of affairs in the US through their art. However, even those who’ve taken jabs at the US presidenct have done so in a very minute and almost unnoticeable way. Which has led this season’s collections to come off as more uninspired and, ultimately, underwhelming. Although not very politically charged, there were still a few collections that managed to stand out during New York’s fall 2017 line up. Fashion lovers rejoice, you still have something to cheer about in this sea of uncertainty.

Photo: Inez & Vinoodh

Nili Lotan

Sometimes the cure for a fashion drought is to look toward the brands that mainstream fashion tends to look over. Nili Lotan, a name that I presume only die-hard fashion lovers would recognize, presented a collection this season that would quench the thirst of even the most trained fashion eye. This season sees Lotan visiting extreme proportions with her trousers — think exaggerated palazzo pants. She created a slouchy and relaxed look that mirrors many streetwear trends happening right now, but it doesn’t come with the added overly casual “hype-beast-urban-Instagram-chic” look that seems to be dominating runways everywhere. As a whole, the collection is a smart and elegant reimagining of current trends that are bound to appeal to the most fashion forward millennials and style veterans alike.

Photo: Luca Tombolini

Delpozo

Josep Font has established himself as the new king of architectural design. His work for Delpozo has now solidified his place as one of the most forward thinking and interesting designers in the world right now. For his fall 2017 collection, Font has taken his traditional avant-garde designs and infused them with a 1960’s sense of futuristic space age design. Models walked out in knitted sweaters that continued all the way up to the model’s heads, creating a Jetsons-like space helmet that brought back memories of designers like Pucci and Courreges. Designs that didn’t incorporate Josep’s retro-futurism relied on the refined and modern elegance that brought him so much praise and fame during his introductory seasons at Delpozo. One smart feature was the addition of elegant billowing gowns that are perfect as any last minute award show additions for trendsetting celebs looking for a more forward-thinking silhouette for this year’s awards season.

The Row

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s now iconic house has hit cult status among fashion aficionados. With their staple black and whites, the Olson’s very rarely moved into the realm of colour with the only variance from black and white being a bright lipstick red and a muted mustard yellow. Now one would imagine it would be extremely difficult to create a collection that stands out using only white and black, but the Olsens have turned this into a science. They blended their go-to relaxed silhouettes with a refined tailoring that rivals that of the ateliers employed in Paris’ iconic fashion houses. The overall tone this season seemed to exude a masculinity, with many of the looks employing straight legged trousers and duster coats to give the collection a “harder edge.” Yet the Olsens’ expertise for design fuse what would be an extremely overbearing masculine silhouette with an elegant and refined air of femininity.

Photo: Monica Feudi

Zimmerman

European whimsy can be one of the hardest things to find in New York. The New York woman, more often than not, is a more relaxed and streetwise woman to her European counterpart. However, at this season’s Zimmerman show, the designer showed us that a New Yorker can also paint a fairytale for herself among the towers of steel and glass. Ruffles, a trend that has been dominating the fashion world for a little over a year now, was the grounding feature that pulled the entire collection together. Allowing for the collection to go from outright fantasy to the wearable and reasonable for the everyday woman. One of the most eye-catching and pleasing features of the collection were the additions of stripes, plaids, polka dots, and sequins, which gave the collection a modern and relevant appearance that can quickly be lost when a designer relies solely on romantic designs.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Alexander Wang

The Alexander Wang brand has become a go-to for any hip and influential millennial. But in the last few years, Wang’s brand seemed to be losing what made it so interesting and appealing to the youth of the fashion world. Fortunately, Alexander Wang’s fall 2017 collection went back to the brand’s roots and gave fashion lovers around the world exactly what they had been missing from the brand in recent years. His collection felt dark, moody, and modern, alternative, yet completely wearable, which is the perfect mixture for selling clothing in this day and age. Where fashion is more concerned about looking different (in a controlled and uniform way) rather than in a jarring and completely out there way.

Photo: Umberto Fratini

Self-Portrait

“Give the people what they want” seemed to be the direction that Self-Portrait designer Han Chong took this season. Stepping away from his usual lacy dresses and pretty things, Chong presented a collection steeped in New York cool. Plaid coats hit floor length while dresses in denim and Prince-of-Wales check came in ruffled and asymmetrical silhouettes. More whimsical looks were paired with slightly high waisted shorts to give them a more youthful and relevant appearance. Velvet dresses gave the collection its dose of modern and elegant evening wear, which has been a difficult feat for many young designers, especially in today’s street trend-obsessed society. Some looks like the ruffled polka dot and floral print blouses and dresses seemed a little disjointed with the modern edge the collection presented, but not enough to put off potential buyers looking for something a little more street relevant but refined.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Cushnie et Ochs

One of the biggest delights during NYFW was Cushnie et Ochs. Now in its 9th year of gracing the runways of New York, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have managed to stick to their guns and catapult their namesake brand to cult status among the fashion crowd and celebs alike. This year, the designers once again presented a collection deeply rooted in feminine sexuality and the beauty of the female body. Their staple cocktail length dresses were given a dose of modern minimalism, leaving only the fabric, fit, and models’ natural curves rather than gimmicks to wow onlookers. The ice blues and bold citrus yellows helped add colour to the monotonous black and white of the collection, while surprise pops of sequin paillettes hinted at what the designers may be cooking up for future collections. The most appealing looks came in the form of various decollete-baring dresses and a few two piece pant numbers that were sprinkled throughout the collection.

Photo: Frame

Frame

It’s a tried and tested fact the Swedes are masters at creating minimal and relevant clothing that understands today’s trends but moves to the beat of its own drum. And for designers Erik Torstensson and Jens Grede of Frame, the statement couldn’t be more appropriate. For Frame’s fall 2017 collection, the design duo has created a collection that mirrors this and last season’s most coveted trends — denim, 70’s eclectic rock chic, velvet, leopard print, shirting, androgyny, etc. — and infused them with a nordic sense of stylish ease. For example, rather than creating an outlandish reinterpretation of the Vetements suit that has been dominating the runway, Torstensson and Grede introduced a perfectly relaxed pantsuit that borrowed from last year’s dominating androgynous look and gave a fresh and less gimmicky appeal. Suiting that used 70’s inspired fabrics and prints à la Gucci were designed to stand alone, rather than be direct interpretations. Probably the biggest defining trait that Frame’s fall collection has is the designers’ ability to capture everything that is happening now in fashion in only 13 looks; something that takes even the most seasoned fashion veterans 40 or more looks to achieve. Designers Erik and Jens know exactly what they’re doing. They know who their clients are and how to give them exactly what they want. It’s safe to say that while the Instagram “influencers” will be throwing on the most garish and trend driven designs fashion heavyweights can pump out, the real fashion innovators will be wearing Frame.

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Model Citizen: Nini Amerlise

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Photo Credit: Gemini Duncan photography

How did you get into modeling?

Growing up, I always enjoyed being photographed and dressing up in my mother’s clothes, which sparked my interest in modeling. However, I was bullied during my childhood and progressively until my late teens, this caused a bit of a set back as I didn’t see my self worth. Overtime, I discovered that I had a natural ability, which I embodied and expressed through various art forms, including singing, drawing, dancing, and modeling. As a result, these outlets assisted in my healing process. I soon realized that I had a particular affinity to modeling, yet very similar to my other artistic aptitudes and endeavors. Finally this led me to pursing it.

What has been your favourite modeling job to date?

My favorite modeling job to date was walking in New York Fashion Week for the first time, this past September 2016. It was an exhilarating experience, and a wonderful opportunity of self-growth. It was pleasure to walk for three segments, as each one helped me increase my skills. Assisting in the development of charisma, talent, stage presence and overall confidence, it was moment in life I will never forget.

What do you like to do in your free time?

In my free time I enjoy spending quality hours with my family, which is very precious. However, it has been a bit of a challenge as I advance in my career, so I try to soak up as much time in as I can get. If I’m not with my family, I enjoy doing DIY projects as I have been bitten with the creativity bug. I am in love with the all art forms and the idea of creating.

What genre of music or artists are you currently listening to?

Some of my favourite artists I currently listen to are Tipple Lee, Lecrae, Christon Gray and Spzrkt. All very motivational and inspiring musicians, when I listen to their music before I embark the day, it gives that extra umph to keeps me on track and focused on putting my best foot forward.

How would you describe your personal style?

My personal style is the expression of who I am. I have always been a lover of fashion; however, I am the type of fashionista that rarely goes along with the current trends. This was something I would get picked on about while growing up in school, being called “extra” because I wouldn’t assimilate to the standards. Now, it’s one of my most loved characteristics about myself and is appreciated by my peers in the industry.

Some principles I do implement while dressing up on any occasion, is if it doesn’t feel right I won’t wear it. For example, yes I love to look good, but my intention is not use my body to attract the wrong attention. Secondly, and most importantly, I must be confident in what I am wearing before I head out. As confidence translates quicker than you think, it is the first thing people see, and determines how they perceive you. That’s how fashion trends emerge in the first place, be confident in you first and the appreciation will come later. Even if it doesn’t who cares, it all about being happy, being you.

Style is fashion, fashion is art, and art is expression. If I feel to wear blue socks, yellow sandals, and a orange dress, I will do as long as it embodies who I am, no matter if it’s a trend or not. It’s simply just me.

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Photo Credit: Yaamon

What would surprise people about you?

Something people may be surprised about is that I have an immense love for babies! Babies are incredible and are the greatest gift to mankind. They represent innocence and purity. Being amongst them have made me realize that life is a truly a blessing, and its such a gracious gift to be here on earth. We are called to help each other through our various talents and gifting’s. Let’s continue to positively inspire these little ones growing up as they are the future, One love!

Fill in the Blank: I cannot live without _____

God.

What are some of your goals?

Five years from now, I see myself as an established entrepreneur whether in modeling or my other artistic aptitudes. Through this, I want to raise enough proceeds to aid poverty in developing countries. As well as, becoming contributor in the means of creating better infrastructures for the homeless in Toronto, Ghana, Jamaica, Cuba, and China. During their stay, the homeless will be able to have access to top ranking mentors, who will help encourage such individuals who seek the options to attain a stable life. The selected locations were chosen based on the direct link to my lineage. What better way to say thank you than by giving back to which you are a product of.

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Nini.Amerlise Soon to be released website www.NiniAmerlise.com