Men’s fashion month is fully underway! With tomorrow being the last day of Pitti Uomo — the second stop in the annual men’s fashion month journey, we decided to put together a list of a few menswear designers we think you should look out for this coming season in New York! Get your Google tabs open and ready to do some research if you don’t already know these pantomimists because they undoubtedly will be the highlights of NYFW: Men’s!
With their avant-garde nature infused with elevated streetwear, N-P-Elliott is going to be one to watch for this upcoming season. Having seen last season’s ecclesiastical references in his works, I cannot wait to find out what different elements Nicholas Elliott will combine when we experience his January 31st show! www.npelliott.com
Ovadia and Sons
The brothers behind Ovadia & Sons — nominated for the 2015CFDA Swarovski Menswear Designer of the Year Award — were born in Jerusalem and grew up in Brooklyn. The brothers’ last collection really showcased their ‘edgy bad boy’ aesthetic with leather biker jackets and distressed oversized sweaters. www.ovadiaandsons.com
As finalists for the 2016 Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund, the duo behind Rochambeau are one to watch for this season. Rochambeau explored elements of streetwear with artistic components of various silhouettes and colors in their Moroccan themed Spring/Summer 2017 collection. We cannot wait to see what they have in store for us in February. www.rochambeau.nyc
Not afraid to blur the lines between what defines menswear and womenswear, Palomo Spain allows males to portray their feminine sides in a genuine manner. This European brand is new to the Big Apple, but you can guarantee they won’t leave without making a statement. www.palomospain.com
Headliner: Raf Simon’s
Paris veteran Raf Simon’s decision to show in New York for the first time is rumoured to be due to his new position as the new chief creative officer at Calvin Klein. Simon’s collection for Fall 2016 was intentionally three times too large for the average human but was well-received by both the press and consumers alike. There is no doubt this legend will captivate New York next month. www.rafsimons.com
Do you remember Jeremy Scott’s statement, ‘I don’t speak Italian, but I do speak Moschino’? We don’t speak Italian either. Nor do we Japanese or French, but luckily we don’t really need any of those languages to understand fashion. And to understand fashion, you would know that the upcoming Kenzo and H&M collaboration is a big deal.
With this year’s upcoming release of the KENZO x H&M collection, it’s safe to say that everyone is going to be talking about Kenzo Takada’s iconic brand. Now headed by creative duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, Kenzo has continued its reign as being a brand that’s slightly off centre, yet completely anchored in fashion.
On October 19th, the ‘KENZO X H&M’ opening show took place at Pier 36 in New York where models shared the catwalk with an army of dancers directed by Jean-Paul Goude, as well as the Watts 103rd Street Rhythm Band. Drums and extravagant dance moves took the stage, and the theatrical vibe was simply magical and contagious. Let’s just say that the already abundant anticipation for the collaboration hit the roof.
The historic house ofKENZO holds many meanings. Daring, sassy, energetic, free, confident, unique, and self-expression are just a few words associated with the brand. There is not nearly enough room on this page to describe it all. The language of Kenzo is visual, but the message is clear: fashion is not just about having fun, but it is also–and more importantly– about not being afraid of doing so.
In anticipation of the official release on November 3rd, we wanted to share some of the pieces that we are willing to kill for, if anyone tries to steal them from our hands when the collection hits stores.
See? Strong feelings and emotions have already flourished among us. We now officially do speak KENZO.
“I am really digging the denim puffer coat from the KENZO x H&M collection. This is a piece that I think will last long after the hype, long lines, and eBay sales have all dissipated. Also, it will be perfect to survive to colder winter temps and still look stylish. As a former employee, I have experienced the H&M designer collaboration madness first-hand; therefore, I would kill anyone from who tries to steal this piece from my hands because it’s all about survival. People are going to go nuts, so it’s either kill or be killed!!”
“Why did I pick the reversible silk-blend skirt from the KENZO X H&M collection? Seriously? Do you really need me to tell you why? For me it seems pretty obvious why I should kill whomever dares to steal this skirt from me next Thursday. It is just PERFECTION. This piece is everything I could aim for this season: sassy yet feminine and elegant (the midi length helps toning down the vibrancy of the pattern), and absolutely gorgeous and fun. Plus, clothes should also make us feel good and confident, and NOBODY will ever mess with someone wearing a pink & red zebra print flared skirt.”
“So this might be the most low-key item on the expansive list of expected pieces, but look at it. It’s heaven! Those subtle/not-so-subtle jungle cats of the collar, layered over a secondary, ruffled collar? Plus those cuffed, ruffled sleeves? I can’t get enough of it. The ruffles are absolutely on trend (thanks Barb from Stranger Things), but the blouse as a whole has a timeless quality to it. And while it may seem like a conservative choice compared to the rest of the collection, it will be a stand out piece in my wardrobe. I can already tell that my inner tigress will come out to snag it in the shop.”
“For me, the one piece in the KENZO x H&M collection I’d love to own is the Reversible Silk Kimono ($299). The selling point of this piece is its craftsmanship. The traditional Japanese silhouette is modernized by adding pops of bright floral appliqué and a reversible printed interior. The slight hint at modern sportswear also makes this an extremely versatile piece that I’d kill to add to my closet this winter. Make sure you check your surroundings when doors open at H&M’s Eaton Centre flagship on the 3rd, because I’ll definitely be football tackling anyone who thinks of evening laying a finger on this beautiful coat.”
“If you know me, this choice goes without question. I’ll be honest and say I can’t deny the fact that I admire anything pyjama related. Already owning a few of my own pyjama inspired pieces, I find myself constantly on the hunt for anything even slightly sleepwear related (oversized hoodies/crewnecks, loafers, etc.) to add to my collection. That being said that is the reason why this red trim pyjama design top is definitely going to be the next addition to my closet! Although the piece may be right up my alley style wise, the print isn’t something I would typically desire, BUT leave it up to KENZO to take classic sleepwear and turn it into something electrifying!”
With the rise of comedic dark humour trending in fashion right now–be it on pins, patches, embroidery or silk screened garments– we sat down with Devin Gibson, Creative Director & Founder of rising streetwear brand MOON.rar, to get a deeper explanation of the ideas behind the fad that is taking over!
Ryan Wohlgemut: Can you tell us about yourself and how would you describe your design aesthetics? Devin Gibson: I’m an awkward, introverted person most of the time; I think that my clothing represents that. All of my designs are minimal, sometimes they’re loud, but most of the time they’re confusing.
RW: What is the thought process behind your designs? DG: Honestly I try not to think too hard about my designs, I just make whatever I want to wear.
RW: What is the brand story of MOON.rar? DG: I started MOON.rar about 7 or 8 months ago when I learned how to silk screen. Then I started making t-shirts out of my basement. I was mostly selling to my friends and not really making any profit. At the time I was working a shitty job in Kensington Market and one day when my boss wasn’t there I set up rack out front with a few of my designs. About 4 hours and $20 later I was going to leave, but one of the owners of Untitled & Co happened to walk by and he said they could sell my clothing in their store. After that I went home and grabbed all the clothing I had and brought it to the Untitled & Co location on Queen Street West. Since then I’ve had a lot more confidence in my designs so I am trying to build off of that momentum. I also sell my clothing in another small store called Creeps and online.
RW: Where do you get your inspiration? DG: Mostly from anime but combined with however I feel at the time. The great aspect about having control over the entire process is that I can think of a design in the morning and have it done by the afternoon. Music is also a big inspiration for me. I need to have music when I am making shit. Slug Christ and pretty much everyone on Awful Records is what I’ve been listening to.
RW: What inspired you to start making your own clothing? DG: It’s something I’ve wanted to do from a young age, but I think my main drive is that I hate working for other people. It’s also a way that I can connect with people, which is something I’ve always had trouble with.
RW: Does your own cultural background have anything to do with your design aesthetic? DG: Maybe? I think I’m mostly inspired by other cultures, specifically Japanese.
RW: What is the biggest challenge you have faced yet this far? DG: The biggest challenge I face is that I do everything myself. It’s been a really great experience learning about the process, but as I grow it’s becoming difficult to print every garment myself while handling other aspects of the business.
RW: Can you give us a hint of upcoming products? DG: I have mostly just been printing on t-shirts, but I finally have hats on the way. With summer coming to an end you can expect jackets and sweaters.
Never seeming to be afraid to think outside the box and make the unexpected look so natural and effortless, the menswear scene of London, England is truly one of a kind. As one of the four fashion capitals of the world, there is no doubt that London style influencers can teach men across the pond a thing or two to “up the anti” of the North American menswear sphere.
PUNK ROCK ROOTS
As you may know, London is famous for its rock music roots, and evidently that can still be seen distinctly on the streets to this day. Being the fountainhead to some of rock music’s most iconic groups, such as Iron Maiden, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, and The Sex Pistols to name a few, it’s no wonder that the menswear connoisseur’s of London like to reference their heritage. It is no doubt why London has embraced the punk rock style better than anywhere else in the world.
Also fitting to the rock culture and “IDGAF” attitude of the many that embraced the rock scene in the 60’s and 70’s, distressed “Do-It-Yourself” finishing on all types of clothing is everything and everywhere. From t-shirts with holes as if you have been wearing the same shirt everyday for the last 7 years. to distressed denim being taken to the extreme, and even blazers being beaten up to look as though you just don’t care, this seems to be the it vibe we are getting of males residing in London. Although the idea behind the mentality is that fashion isn’t something taken seriously anymore, in reality it is the exact opposite.
OVERSIZED IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT
Contrary to classic rock style, Londoners have lately been going for the opposite. No more skinny jeans that are so tight it was questionable if the blood in your legs was circulating properly, but rather clothing so big and so boxy that we aren’t even sure how it is staying on your body. Whether your pants are cropped to ensure you are able to walk through the puddles of London’s constantly wet streets, or they are so oversized that they bunch at your ankles, as long as they are wide and appear to not be the size you should be wearing, you have an in with males in the Kingdom.
Always seeming to push boundaries in some sort of way, males of the U. K.’s capital could definitely teach North American males a thing or two. If androgynous doesn’t describe what has become of fashion over the last couple seasons in the European fashion capitals, I’m not sure what does. Specifically, London has become a place for the voice of youth. A place for the younger generation to take the lead and push the boundaries of menswear; a place to show the world where they would like to see “menswear” one day, if gender segregated titles will even be a thing that is.
BOLD IS BETTER
The British are never afraid to explore ways to take their personal style to the next level. Whether it be blurring the lines between what was once considered “male” and “female,” or wearing everything that is so big it could fall off of you, being bold is an essential concept taken into consideration for the U.K. male. Be it practiced through colour, print, pattern, or texture, being bold and making a statement is what defines London’s Street Style.
With fall almost around the corner, we are taking a look at what designers have in store for the upcoming colder days. This fall-winter season will be the perfect opportunity to take your outfit to the next level.
Fringe detailing, tight trousers, and brimmed hats. Pointed-toe booties and pussy bows. This sly rockstar look is a timeless style. Stepping over boundaries into the feminine territory, Hedi Slimane was just one designer who fully embraced the old Hollywood feel of his last show at Saint Laurent last fall/winter show season.
Prints mixed with prints. Embroidery and embellishments. The collaboration of era’s and styles. Gucci was one of the many shows this fall/winter season that embraced the kitsch culture.
Velvet, silk, and shearling. Wide leg pants, Canadian tuxedo,’s and chunky sweaters. Excessive layering and mixed textures. Oversized lapels and oversized everything. TopMan Design gave us serious flash backs to the 70’s.