Six Standout Collections at London Fashion Week: Men’s

We are giving very little time to recoup after eating until our pants split and drinking way too much during New Year’s Eve before the madness of the many fashion kicks-off. London is the first stop to see what designers have in store for Fall 2018.  Here are several of the collections that stood out from the week.

Photo Credit: AITOR ROSÁS/WWD

Designer Samuel Ross took at the look at the juxtaposition of a raw and industrial worksite alongside a traditional art gallery for his fall 2018 collection.

The designer showcased both men’s and womenswear on the runway. For his men’s collection Ross experimented with fabrics by incorporating digitally printed wools and  technical nylons as well as leather.  The collection also included thermo-reactive nylons, exaggerated pockets and logos used as graphic details on jackets.

The womenswear pieces followed suit and included a sheer white button-down shirt worn with cargo pants with utility pockets and complemented the technical apparel for men.

Photo Credit: AITOR ROSÁS/WWD

Designer Edward Crutchley explored Western culture for his fall. The collection included  oversize silhouettes for both men and women and bold prints that featured a mixing people, animals and different shapes to create abstract patterns all seemed completely wearable and cool.

Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

One of fashion’s most innovative designers Hussein Chalayan drew inspiration from the tensions around immigrant. Chalayan was able to take a serious subject and created a collection of padded coats and raincoats, suiting, pants and shirts that are completely wearable

Photo Credit: Casely-Hayford

Designer Casely-Hayford trench coat cape is one of the items that I would be coveting for next fall. The collection offered elevated men’s staples including both slim and baggy trousers and sweatshirts that felt drew inspiration past but completely suitable for the modern man.

Wales Bonner continues to be one of Britain’s rising stars. One of few women designers doing menswear, Bonner continues to show why she was deserving of the LVMH Prize back in 2016. The collection mixed aspects of black male history and identity with creole sailors for fall 2018. Bonner continues to push the image of black masculinity from a women’s prospective.

Charles Jeffrey, winner of the Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2017 British Fashion Awards, knows how to put on a show. The designer showcased a promising mix of Britain club kid and queer eleganza. Jeffrey’s main inspiration for the collection came from The Velvet Rage: Overcoming the Pain of Growing Up Gay in a Straight Man’s World by the American clinical psychologist Alan Downs which he considers to be a must read.

 

HERON PRESTON “SHOW HOUSE” SS18 Collection

For Heron Preston’s second collection, the designer developed pieces with a subversive sense of humor. Preston dipped into his personal history to create a graphics-heavy, referential collection inspired by kitsch and fine art, from Jeff Koons’s ceramic sculptures to the designer’s own memories of paintings in display homes in the Northern California suburbs. This season also marks the debut of Heron Preston womenswear, presented alongside the men’s collection.

For more information Heron Preston, please visit the designer’s website here

Frank + Oak Toronto Warehouse Sale

Frank + Oak Toronto Warehouse Sale!

 Dates:

Wednesday, March 8th – Sunday, March 12th


Times:

Wednesday Noon – 9pm

Thursday and Friday 11am – 8pm

Saturday and Sunday 10am – 6pm

Get ready for the biggest Frank + Oak Warehouse Sale ever! For 6 days, shop up to 80% off on Frank + Oak largest selection of inventory from Men’s Apparel, Outerwear, and Footwear.

Five Paris Men’s Fashion Week Shows That Stood Out

Each fashion capital comes with its own anticipations, but Paris, for both men’s and women’s collections, is the one that I get more excited about. The Paris Men’s Fashion Week shows offered many wearing staples, and two of the major running themes throughout were a new take on suiting and proportions. Many designers looked to the 80’s and 90’s for inspiration for their Fall 2017 collections. It will be interesting to see how their ideas trickle down to the everyday man, but for those who grew up during those decades it won’t be too overwhelming.

Here is our round up of five collections that stood out during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

Valentino 

Photo Credit: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino man might not run in the same circle as the women he designs for, but I was highly impressed by his first solo collection for men. For Fall 2017, the designer brought in a bit of a punk attitude by teaming up with Sex Pistol’s graphic designer, Jamie Reid, and placing two different slogans on coats, sweaters, and baseball caps.

The collection offers men wearable staples, and I am sure the design teams at Zara and H&M are already figuring out how to knock them off.

Dries van Noten

Photo Credit: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Any fashion recap I write has to include Dries van Noten. I have been a huge fan of the Belgian for sometime now as he is one of few designers I would wear completely head-to-toe if my bank account permitted.

For fall, van Noten played with proportions — boxy blazers à la David Byrne and oversized sweaters paired with narrow trousers. This look was first seen at Balenciaga, but Dries offered more wearable options and his felt less costume-y.

Berluti 

Photo Credit: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Designer Heider Ackermann showed that he can scale back while remaining true to his design aesthetic for his debut as Berluti’s new creative director. The collection offered pieces that will satisfy customers of the brand and die-hard fans of the designer.

Dior Homme

Photo Credit: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Kris Van Assche has long proved that he was a worthy successor to Hedi Silmane at Dior Homme. I am not one for wanting to wear a suit but Van Assche showed many options that I could see myself in, and that many guys could wear. The Tron-esque sunglasses are definitely a covetable item for next season.

Thom Browne

Photo Credit: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv

A Thom Browne show does not always include wearable clothes but the ideas are there. After all, the designer started his career creating cropped trousers and shrunken suit jackets that are all the rage now, but at the time seemed a bit too fashion forward especially from an American designer.

For Fall 2017, the designer continued to play with the idea of suiting proportions and, though there were no 50 shades of grey in the collection, grey was the main color for the collection. Often, what is seen on the runway won’t make it to the stores, but bravo to Thom Browne for continually putting on interesting shows.

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Highlights From Pitti Uomo’s Biannual Trade Show

Featuring highlights from the Tim Coppens guest show to veteran designer Tommy Hilfiger’s Fall/Winter 2017 presentation, Pitti Uomo continues to be one of the world’s most important platforms for men’s clothing and accessory collections. Designers, along with fashion reporters, gather at the biannual menswear trade show held in Florence to launch new collections or projects and to flaunt their best street style. The shift from traditional menswear to more eclectic offerings was most evident this season. Here is a roundup of some of the collections:

Photo Credit: Tommy Hilfiger

TOMMY HILFIGER

After a successful collaboration with Gigi Hadid and his See Now, Buy Now showing at New York Fashion Week, veteran American designer Tommy Hilfiger hosted an exclusive presentation during Pitti Uomo to showcase the Fall 2017 Hilfiger Edition collection on January 10th, 2017.

“I am very proud to be presenting my menswear collections at Pitti Immagine Uomo,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “Since I first launched my brand in 1985, menswear has been a key part of the Tommy Hilfiger brand. Men’s fashion is really having a moment right now, and it’s great to be here at Pitti — one of the greatest platforms in the world for menswear designers — to celebrate the growth and achievements of the men’s fashion world.”

Hilfiger Edition pays homage to Tommy Hilfiger’s storied menswear heritage, with time-honoured classics reimagined for today. The designer also showcased looks from Tommy Hilfiger Tailored and the Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collections all under one roof.

Photo Credit: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv

TIM COPPENS 

Tim Coppens showed his namesake label’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection at Pitti Uomo.  The American designer displayed both men’s and women’s looks on the runway. These included everything from plaid and functional sportswear to a sneak peak at his sneakers for the Under Armour UAS line, of which he is executive creative director.

Z Zegna 

The game of fashion musical chairs last year included designer Alessandro Sartori back at the helm of the Italian luxury giant Ermenegildo Zegna Group as Artistic Director. For his Z Zegna F/W ’17 presentation at Pitti, the designer looked to the ski-slopes for inspiration. The collection included skiwear, shearling jackets, and other sportswear staples.

Photo Credit: F.Y!

Ordinary People 

Ordinary People, launched in 2011, is designed by Korean designer Jang Hyeong-Cheol, who brought his label to Pitti Uomo and took part of the Concept Korea event. We recently featured The Best Of Seoul Fashion Week ss 17 and it helped to introduce us to the many talented designers Korea has to offer. Jang Hyeong-Cheol has now been added to the list.

This collection featured many coats that I am now coveting and have begun saving for. Jang Hyeong-Cheol showcased a layering of edgy and luxury pieces that were done to perfection for Fall/Winter 2017. There was nothing ordinary about this collection.

Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

Sansovino 6

Another brand designed by an American that generated a lot of buzz during Pitti is Ohio native Edward Buchanan’s knitwear brand, Sansovino 6. For his runway show, which featured our friend and first issue cover model Stacey McKenzie, the designer served up the many possibilities of knitwear.

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