Each fashion capital comes with its own anticipations, but Paris, for both men’s and women’s collections, is the one that I get more excited about. The Paris Men’s Fashion Week shows offered many wearing staples, and two of the major running themes throughout were a new take on suiting and proportions. Many designers looked to the 80’s and 90’s for inspiration for their Fall 2017 collections. It will be interesting to see how their ideas trickle down to the everyday man, but for those who grew up during those decades it won’t be too overwhelming.
Here is our round up of five collections that stood out during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino man might not run in the same circle as the women he designs for, but I was highly impressed by his first solo collection for men. For Fall 2017, the designer brought in a bit of a punk attitude by teaming up with Sex Pistol’s graphic designer, Jamie Reid, and placing two different slogans on coats, sweaters, and baseball caps.
The collection offers men wearable staples, and I am sure the design teams at Zara and H&M are already figuring out how to knock them off.
Dries van Noten
Any fashion recap I write has to include Dries van Noten. I have been a huge fan of the Belgian for sometime now as he is one of few designers I would wear completely head-to-toe if my bank account permitted.
For fall, van Noten played with proportions — boxy blazers à la David Byrne and oversized sweaters paired with narrow trousers. This look was first seen at Balenciaga, but Dries offered more wearable options and his felt less costume-y.
Designer Heider Ackermann showed that he can scale back while remaining true to his design aesthetic for his debut as Berluti’s new creative director. The collection offered pieces that will satisfy customers of the brand and die-hard fans of the designer.
Kris Van Assche has long proved that he was a worthy successor to Hedi Silmane at Dior Homme. I am not one for wanting to wear a suit but Van Assche showed many options that I could see myself in, and that many guys could wear. The Tron-esque sunglasses are definitely a covetable item for next season.
A Thom Browne show does not always include wearable clothes but the ideas are there. After all, the designer started his career creating cropped trousers and shrunken suit jackets that are all the rage now, but at the time seemed a bit too fashion forward especially from an American designer.
For Fall 2017, the designer continued to play with the idea of suiting proportions and, though there were no 50 shades of grey in the collection, grey was the main color for the collection. Often, what is seen on the runway won’t make it to the stores, but bravo to Thom Browne for continually putting on interesting shows.