Six Standout Collections at London Fashion Week: Men’s

We are giving very little time to recoup after eating until our pants split and drinking way too much during New Year’s Eve before the madness of the many fashion kicks-off. London is the first stop to see what designers have in store for Fall 2018.  Here are several of the collections that stood out from the week.

Photo Credit: AITOR ROSÁS/WWD

Designer Samuel Ross took at the look at the juxtaposition of a raw and industrial worksite alongside a traditional art gallery for his fall 2018 collection.

The designer showcased both men’s and womenswear on the runway. For his men’s collection Ross experimented with fabrics by incorporating digitally printed wools and  technical nylons as well as leather.  The collection also included thermo-reactive nylons, exaggerated pockets and logos used as graphic details on jackets.

The womenswear pieces followed suit and included a sheer white button-down shirt worn with cargo pants with utility pockets and complemented the technical apparel for men.

Photo Credit: AITOR ROSÁS/WWD

Designer Edward Crutchley explored Western culture for his fall. The collection included  oversize silhouettes for both men and women and bold prints that featured a mixing people, animals and different shapes to create abstract patterns all seemed completely wearable and cool.

Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

One of fashion’s most innovative designers Hussein Chalayan drew inspiration from the tensions around immigrant. Chalayan was able to take a serious subject and created a collection of padded coats and raincoats, suiting, pants and shirts that are completely wearable

Photo Credit: Casely-Hayford

Designer Casely-Hayford trench coat cape is one of the items that I would be coveting for next fall. The collection offered elevated men’s staples including both slim and baggy trousers and sweatshirts that felt drew inspiration past but completely suitable for the modern man.

Wales Bonner continues to be one of Britain’s rising stars. One of few women designers doing menswear, Bonner continues to show why she was deserving of the LVMH Prize back in 2016. The collection mixed aspects of black male history and identity with creole sailors for fall 2018. Bonner continues to push the image of black masculinity from a women’s prospective.

Charles Jeffrey, winner of the Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2017 British Fashion Awards, knows how to put on a show. The designer showcased a promising mix of Britain club kid and queer eleganza. Jeffrey’s main inspiration for the collection came from The Velvet Rage: Overcoming the Pain of Growing Up Gay in a Straight Man’s World by the American clinical psychologist Alan Downs which he considers to be a must read.

 

Highlights From London Fashion Week Men’s

At a time when London really needs some uplifting inspiration after the various terrorist attacks in the city and Manchester, London Fashion Week Men’s was nothing short of celebratory of its people and their differences that make the city unique. What was consistent among many of the designers was their ability to blur gender norms in fashion and to incorporate a sense of openness. Whether it is by print, fitting proportions, or the models themselves, here are some highlights from London Fashion Week Men’s that proves how androgyny is the new black!

TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION

One of the first shows of the fashion week, Tourne De Transmission indicated vibrant and utilitarian looks for fall. The models have a flair of androgyny to them as the collection selects multiple genders to showcase their men’s line. The male skirt, since last year, has been making a statement against gender norms. Tourne De Transmission reinstates this and also makes it a casual piece rather than a standout item used only for the purpose of adding shock value. The brand’s goal to combine ideas visually is executed well in this collection.

BODY BOUND

While Body Bound doesn’t go to the same lengths as some of the other designers have in showcasing androgyny, their collection still embodies a sense of the modern man in each of their pieces. The designer uses different proportions and sizing to resemble an idea of the modern man that is quite different from the standard fits we see in most mid-end fashion brands today. Each look has a different colour story that makes a statement of clean elegance.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

Every look in Edward Crutchley’s collection this season not only makes a statement towards advocacy for androgyny, but also shows flawless, wearable pieces that so many would love to have in their closet. The renaissance style dresses on men allow for a different take on elegance. The skirt and jacket sets show brilliance in mixing patterns, and the edgy, masculine pieces worn by many of the women in the show display strength in a new identification that has often been misunderstood. Edward Crutchley’s show exemplifies the strength in going against the norm.

XANDER ZHOU

The Fall Collection for Xander Zhou also followed the common theme of gender barriers this season. Rather than a collection that depicts one or the other between masculine and feminine, the collection blends the two by displaying street wear in pieces such as his jackets, pants and layering techniques as well as an undertone of elegance, which shows in the blouses and prints that are used. Cutouts have been a look for a while, mostly being shown on the backs or on pants. Xander Zhou also utilizes cutouts but in a different style on the front, indicating a new trend for fall.

MAN

A distinct highlight of London Fashion Week Men’s is the show, MAN. This feature was brought by Top Man and Fashion East, as a way to showcase upcoming menswear designers. If some designers during the week broke down barriers, the ones in MAN, annihilated these claims to fashion norms as the looks were stylishly brilliant to say the least. The gowns, mini dresses, skirts, suits, eclectic makeup and everything else was a true celebration for new designers, London, and all those who like to embrace their uniqueness.

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