Milan Uomo Fall 2018: The Highlights

Men’s fashion has slowly, but surely, taken itself out of the dark ages. Leaving the world of simple suits and trousers behind and pushing into newer, more fashionable territory. The days of simple hyper-masculine silhouettes seem to finally be a thing of the past, with modern Italian menswear moving towards a broader and more unisex look. This season, Milan’s menswear designers sprung into action and created collections that take conventional masculine silhouettes and inject an organic feminity to each garment. Leaving their designs looking undoubtedly masculine, yet satisfyingly feminine all at once.

MARNI

Marni has taken a very drastic turn in terms of looks since founder Consuelo Castiglioni, stepped down as creative head last year. The new Marni, now headed by Francesco Risso, Marni has evolved into a fashion house focused on the grey areas of boundary-pushing design. Much of the house’s DNA is still very evident within Francesco’s designs, which is always a great thing to see, however, Marni’s codes now have a cacophonous freshness that’s relevant with today’s luxury fashion trends. For fall 2018, it looks as if Marni was about playing with chaos. Pattern, volume, silhouettes, colour, and texture all came crashing into one another to create a modern vagabond chic aesthetic. Some of the most whimsical and likeable pieces have to be the suiting and plaids which were decorated with splashes of cartoon illustrations of keys, foxes, and beakers. Giving the collection a wonderfully light-hearted look.

PRADA

What can be said about Miuccia Prada that hasn’t already been said before? The woman is a genius of her craft. Often overshadowed by gimmicky designers and their smoke and mirrors, yet never shaken enough by their presence to change her designs. Miuccia has become the underlying foundation of industry hellbent to spitting out trend after trend. This season, Prada once again sends out a stunning collection rooted deeply in design and style, rather than quick trend. For her fall show, Miuccia took one of her brand’s most defining materials (nylon) and reinterpreted it into just about everything the models wore on the runway. One design aesthetic that stuck out during the show was how relatively tame it was in terms of patterns for a modern Prada show. Within the last few years, Miuccia has really spearheaded the pattern mix aesthetic that many designers are basing their entire brands on now. However, that didn’t mean the collection lacked any fun deconstructed patterns. If anything the placement of patterned and graphic ensembles at various intervals of the show, allowing it to stay fresh and electric. Yet even with fun beach-inspired patterns and prints, the real highlights of the show were the looks that combined 60s London mod silhouettes with the sportiness of today. A big part that was possible by the use of Prada’s signature nylon. Fusing today’s millennial obsession with athleisure and Prada’s razor-sharp high fashion go-to’s.

DSQUARED2

The Caten twins have a true talent in the field of reimagination. While other designers take design go-to’s and fail at reimagining the design trope in fresh and relevant ways, Dean and Dan Caten manage to inject new life into their influences. Take this season’s western theme for instance, while other designers would fail in making a collection that differences from the dozens of western inspired collections of fashion’s past. The twins at Dsqaured2 manage to create a fun a fresh take on western clothing. As usual, their always evident hint of rock and roll fuses perfectly with their reinvented idea of western glam. One stand out a little feast for the eyes was the small additions of feminine glam like a little peekaboo sequin sleeve, delicate floral trims, and silk ribbon bowties help navigate the collection from overtly masculine to modern androgyny.

RALPH LAUREN

When thinking of the all American ivy league fashionista, they of Ralph Lauren. Always cool, calm, and collected. Lauren collections always stay firmly rooted in old fashion Americana. Which isn’t a bad thing because it works! However, this season at Ralph Lauren Purple Label, a distinctly European flair was injected into the hardcore Americana tropes littered throughout the collection. There were navy and sailor ensembles that had European silhouettes, with their nipped in waists and widened shoulders. There were aviator ensembles that paired delicate velvets with the masculine idea of military dressing. But the true show stoppers were the elegant formalwear, which took plaids and monochrome black ensembles and infused them with a balance of modern touches and a distinctly European silhouette. Allowing for a fresh take on your tradtitional Ivy League boy.

 

Must-Have Pieces Every Guy Needs For Fall

With fall just around the corner, everyone will begin the transition from summer wardrobes to their fall/winter wardrobes. When it comes to women’s clothing for fall, the transition tends to be a lot easier than it is for men’s. Often, men’s wardrobe options for fall are just an uninspired extension of the trends offered for spring/summer. However, menswear designers have taken hold of the industry and have begun to produce collections that differ and better represent each season.

Here at Novella, we value the beauty and importance of seasonal change. And to help our male readers out, here’s a list of the must have menswear pieces for fall.

The Reworked Denim Jacket

It’s no surprise that denim has been a go-to in fashion for a few seasons now, but it wasn’t until last season that denim truly exploded on the scene. This fall, denim is in full force and finding the perfect denim jacket is exactly what every fashionable guy in the city needs. But simply choosing a regular denim jacket isn’t enough this time around. This season calls for a denim jacket that is equal parts classic and out of this world. Look for tassels, motorcycle silhouettes, two-tone colours, patches, and exaggerated tears.

The Graphic Pullover

Although it’s been around for quite some time, the graphic pull over crew-neck has become one of the most profitable and in-demand garments in the fashion world today. Now crewnecks may not be the pinnacle fashion in their original state, but if you find the perfect graphic crew-neck, make sure it has something extremely high fashion woven into its design. Look for either sleek art school chic designs, oversized athletic silhouettes, or elongated and exaggerated sleeves.

The Punk Rock Trouser

Punk rock has been at the heart of fashion since its birth back in the ’70s. However, this season’s punk pieces seem to have focused on everything below the waist. Rather than creating a head to toe look, this season calls for punk rock bottoms above all, with countless brand emulating the severity and cacophonous nature of authentic punk rock clothing. To pull the look off right, look for pants with harsh colour combinations, heavy patchwork, plaids, leather and faux leather, and extreme wear and tear.

The Double Breast

Once thought to be severely out of style, the double breasted blazer and coat are once again back in style and as in demand as ever. Having been injected with a fresh dose of modern flare, the new double breasted garment aims to add a relaxed and vintage aspect to men’s everyday suiting and tailoring. However, it’s best to not trust this look if it’s a little too vintage looking. You may end up looking passé, rather than modern and in the now. When attempting this look, make sure to look for trendy and modern materials, boxier and more relaxed silhouettes, severe shoulders, and pop colours to avoid looking like the chorus line of Guys and Dolls.

The Quilted Puffer

It comes as no surprise that puffer jackets have once again come back into style for another season. However, this time around, the puffer jacket has transformed from its oversized and overstuffed debut to a leaner and thinner version of its former self. Instead of embracing the former ’90s puffer style jackets, designers are now opting for thinner quilted puffers that fit tighter to the body and offer more modern shapes. Instead of a voluminous, oversized puffer, opt for one that’s either cropped or waist length, double breasted, a caplet, a blazer, or features and avant-garde silhouette to avoid weighing down your look.

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Milan Men’s Fashion Week Recap

Milan is the name and graphics are the game! This spring, designers brought the same precision to classic, tailored looks that we expected. However, graphics distinguished their pieces this year. While these details allude to fun and vibrancy for the coming fall and winter months, what they also do is indicate a theme or attitude that the brand is trying to convey aside from the pieces themselves. Here are the highlights from Milan Men’s Fashion Week!

PRADA

Prada’s futuristic theme paid homage to old and recent comic books. The setting had a comic strip mural wrapped around the venue. The models sported multiple looks, each one showing a unique way of showcasing the theme. A truly unexpected show from the brand and definitely a main standout from Milan this season.

FENDI

Fendi is known to use small, random style graphics in their pieces. This season, a desk light was repeatedly seen. The random embellishment placed over muted colour stories and and oversized pieces added depth to the looks and brought playful detailing to what could otherwise could have been seen as a more understated collection from the brand.

VERSACE

The use of graphics and patterns was nothing short of what’s expected from Versace. Nevertheless, the collection had a superb mixture of patterns and pieces with colourful images that looked exceptionally vibrant against the dark and edgy, black pieces. The use of graphics added an element of fierce confidence.

RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

The all-American Ralph Lauren shook things up (slightly) in his Ralph Lauren Purple Label as he played up the Tour De Ralph theme, while still staying true to his red, white, and blue combinations. Graphics were used to play on the athleisure theme, which was placed on some very tailored and old-school varsity type pieces.

DSQUARED2

Dsquared2 is always known to have standout, fashion-forward pieces. This season, they did not disappoint and played up contrasting pieces to create a shocking and unique look. The brand contrasted the very edgy leather pieces theme by adding Hawaiian, floral, and colourful graphics, which allowed each individual piece to standalone. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say the brand took inspiration from envisioning Edward Scissor Hands going on a beach day!

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Milan Fashion Week SS17 Trend Report

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Photo: Soren Jepsen/ The Locals

This season, Milan Fashion Week continued its legacy of bringing sensuality and glamour to the fashion world. Italy’s fashion capital echoed the trends of London and New York in that there is a nostalgia still present, yet also brought its own trends to the table.

The 80s

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Dolce & Gabbana | Photo: Indigital

No doubt now that the 80s are the decade of the moment.

Bold Colour

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Gucci | Photo: Indigital

Both pink and yellow are the favourites, but going monochrome in any bold colour will be great next season.

Shoulders (again)

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DSquared | Photo: Indigital

 Yes, fashion is still obsessed with shoulders. Wear yours proud. Loud and proud!

Structured Jackets

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Bottega Venetta | Photo: Indigital

 With the 80s in full force, it is no wonder that a structured jacket will be your go-to item.

Sportswear

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Versace | Photo: Indigital

 Again, 80s! Hard to escape!

Summary from Milan then, go 80s. Full 80s. Be it the glamorous side or the Jane Fonda aerobics side, you can’t really go wrong with a nod to the era of George Michael and leg warmers. Also, cheers for shoulder pads!

Going For Gold: Olympic Uniforms 2016

Photo: Hudson's Bay
Photo: Hudson’s Bay

The Rio Olympics have quickly snuck up on us, with the Opening Ceremony happening tonight for us in Toronto. While this year’s Olympics has been surrounded by different issues, the one thing we can always rely on is the fun of the Olympic uniforms. Who will look the coolest coming out the gate and into the stadium? Who will look the most ridiculous? And, most importantly, how will Canada compare to the rest?

CANADA

This year, Canada charged our favourite design twins Dsquared2 with the task of dressing our elite athletes. And quite honestly, they ROCKED the job. Check out these equestrian blazer-style jackets!

Photo: Hudson's Bay
Photo: Hudson’s Bay

They have athletic coat tails!!

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Photo: Lucas Oleniuk via Getty Images

The rest of the collection features relaxed t-shirts, quarter zips, hoodies, and classic sweatpants (these clothes are for athletes, remember). The decision to keep to classic colours and symbols, something that worked brilliantly for the Vancouver 2012 uniforms, is a great one.

GREAT BRITAIN

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Photo: Vogue UK

Team G.B. chose Stella McCartney to carry her collaborative design efforts with Adidas over to their Olympic uniforms. Tom Daley, not only talented as a diver or at wearing teeny Speedos, helped McCartney through the design process. The result is very cool. Streamlined halters, thick bands, and bomber jackets give Great Britain’s athletes an edge.

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Photo: Vogue UK

AUSTRALIA

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Photo: Matt King via Getty Images

Bless these kitschy little outfits! Harkening back to the Los Angeles games, these uniforms are quite frankly so adorable, but not necessarily intimidatingly cool. They look like they should be on the cover of True Prep. Each jacket has the name of every Australian medalist in history inscribed on the inside.

FRANCE

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Photo: Dominique Maitre

Um, how do you describe these uniforms, designed by heritage brand Lacoste, as anything other than so French? Tennis whites, polo shirts, and silk scarves. Wow.

SWEDEN

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Photo: H&M

Proudly, and maybe obviously, wearing H&M-designed looks, Swedish athletes will be hard to miss walking around the Athletes Village.

SOUTH KOREA

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Photo: Chung Sung-Jun via Getty Images

South Korea went for practicality this year as they apparently made their uniforms mosquito repellent due to Zika virus concerns. Hard to tell how those fedoras are going to do the job, but stay safe!

GERMANY

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Photo: Dennis Gromekowski via Getty Images

I think it’s the shades, but I just don’t really know what to say about this Adidas look.

As you can see, with no bias at all, Dsquared2 TAKES THE GOLD for Olympic uniforms.

GO CANADA GO!