Resort 2018 trends you’ll be itching to try

Resort season is one of the most overlooked seasons in the fashion world. While fashion lovers around the world pine for spring, pre-fall, and fall collections, resort seems to fall behind in the eyes of the fashion community year in and year out. Luckily, this season, it seems that designers around the globe were bitten by a creative bug and produced some of the most successful and innovative resort collections to date. And the best thing about fresh and innovative design is that it pushes new trends forward, giving fashion aficionados around the world new inspiration that breathes life into their cold weather wardrobes.

The Printed Knee-High

Photo: Vogue Runway – Prada, Thom Browne, Gucci

Now, to some (I’m talking to you private and Catholic school girls), knee-high socks are the bane of humanity. They’re fussy, tend to always fall or roll down. and generally come in either black, navy, grey, or whatever ridiculous hue of maroon or mustard your school colours were. But don’t dismiss this posh staple just yet. This season’s knee-high stocking was more than just an accessory. Unlike their academic sisters, the knee-highs at high fashion houses Prada, Thom Browne, and Gucci came in printed patterns and interesting hues. Marrying the traditional sock with blogger-it-girl street style, they transformed the good old scholastic knee-high sock into one of the most in-demand accessories of the season.

Shades of (Navy) Blue

Photos: Vogue Runway – Pringle of Scotland, Delpozo, Versace

Resort and cruise collections are created with the sole purpose of giving high-fashion clientele luxurious options for their jet-set vacations. Instead of throwing on a gauzy sarong, resort collections offer up the option of opting for luxe ensembles made especially for the warm summer months, the yacht, or the country estate. And it seems as if the designers visited the same luxurious and exotic locations as their clients when they designed their collections. No colour seems to have popped up during resort season more than deep ocean blue and nowhere else was it used better than at Pringle of ScotlandDelpozo, and Versace. Rich and luxurious shades of indigo and navy dominated the design landscape, creating daydreams of the deep blue oceans that surround the world’s most heavenly rivieras.

Mix and Match Rock & Roll

Photos: Mugler, I’M Isola Marras, Acne Studio

Back in the days before rock music began influencing fashion, one could be called out or even ousted from social circles if they chose to sport a particular rock clique attire for the sake of style. It was a rock & roll travesty to merely wear a studded leather jacket for the sake of looking punk or a Slayer t-shirt because you wanted to look like a metalhead. Fast forward a few decades and the walls of music (and fashion) have come down. It’s no longer a sin to want to mix and match styles from the various eras and genres of rock music around the world. Designers took that notion into full account this season. At MuglerI’M Isola Marras, and Acne Studio, rock saw its various style meshed with one another to create a perfect cacophony of textures, layers, and colours. Punk mesh was mixed with grungy florals, while oversized blazers were paired with pop rock hoodies and eyeliner, and goth trenches were paired with clean Bowie-esque slacks, giving a new look to the traditional rock ensemble.

Green With Envy

Photos: Vogue Runway – Vivetta, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Vionnet

Emerald, pea green, evergreen, mint, lime, avocado: It doesn’t matter what your favourite colour of green is because you don’t have to choose this season. From the look of it, green seems to be the next big trend in colour right after navy blue. At VivettaPhilosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Vionnet, green played a vital role and added a fresh and crisp summer look to many of the garments in the collections. Taking the designers’ resort wear from regular vacation attire to bright and exotic à la Jennifer Lopez at the Grammy’s in Versace. And what woman wouldn’t want to have her own JLo moment?

Rock & Roll Florals

Photos: Vogue Runway – Badgley Mischka, Preen by Thorton Bergazzi, MSGM

Resort 2018 seemed to be the season of turning tradition on its head. At Badgley MischkaPreen by Thorton Bergazzi, and MSGM, florals were placed front and centre. But these weren’t your average florals. This season’s floral called for something a little out of the box. Instead of having the same old soft and summery pastel florals, the designers opted for prints that brought a little edge into the mix. Dark background colours added to the pops of crimson, teal, and gold that wound around one another to create florals that were a little more ’80s glam rock than garden party pristine. Making these prints the perfect mould breaker for a fashion lover who wants to go somewhere a little darker and a little harder with their pretty petaled prints.

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Trend Report: New York and London f/w17

New York and London have just finished presenting their takes on fashion’s fastest growing trends. Designers had their hands in everything from florals to plaid, creating a fashion wonderland for all to see and appreciate. However, not every trend was something worth cheering over and not every trend from last year had the staying power to push into this season. In spite of all of that, five trends managed to dominate the runway this season at NYFW and LFW. Some of them are interpretations and modernizations of trends that have been going strong for a little while now, while others are fresh and following the beat of what’s going on around them.

Here are the 5 trends that swept the stage during New York and London fashion weeks:

Modern Plaids

Marc Jacobs, J. JS Lee, Anna Sui, Osman | Photos: Vogue Runway

The staple print of the 1970’s is back again with a vengeance this season. After slowly sneaking into almost every collection under the sun over the past year, this season’s take on the iconic intersecting stripes seems to have a bit more bite to it.

It seems that mustard is the go-to plaid punch colour this season. Designers like Marc Jacobs and Osman have created their own takes on mustard plaid coats that look beautifully modern, yet nostalgically retro.

Now mustard may have been every plaid loving designer’s sweetheart this season, but many other designers opted for more neutral tones instead. At Anna Sui and J. JS. Lee, Prince of Wales check coats and suits came in simple yet punchy neutrals of black and tan that pumped the heritage look of the check with a little youthful pizzazz.

Protest Apparel

Creatures of Comfort, Gareth Pugh, Prabal Gurung, Ashish | Photos: Vogue Runway

Political injustices that have been sweeping across the United States has inspired a plethora of designers and artists to push past what’s been socially acceptable as a collection to create what are now being dubbed “protest collections.

This season has seen countless designers present their personal opinions against the current U.S. presidency by incorporating graphic and stylistic design elements into their collections. For example, graphic tees and sweatshirts were the highlights at Creatures of Comfort, Prabal Gurung, and Ashish. Models strutted down the runway in garments that either directly quoted many of Donald Trump’s ludicrous catchphrases or directly opposed them by sending messages of peace and empowerment.

However, one collection really stood out by breaking down walls and really pushing the boundary of what politically charged fashion can be. This season at Gareth Pugh, models were dressed in military inspired outfits that so closely resembled modern Nazi uniforms that it felt uncomfortable to even watch the show — which was Pugh’s brilliant intention. Model after model stormed the runway in haunting makeup and beautifully tailored military garb that represented Pugh’s vision of what America’s future may look like if a fascist government sinks its teeth into it for too long. The runway music was a cacophonous array of jumbled songs, speeches, and easily recognizable American media that mimicked CIA audios of torture used on prisoners. The collection did not break from a completely black colour scheme, only adding to the doom and gloom that Pugh wanted to express. In the end, the collection is a strong representation of creative visions that designers will start to express as the world around them become little less bright as time goes on.

Alternative Florals

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, Christopher Kane, Ryan Lo, Erdem | Photos: Vogue Runway

These aren’t your grandma’s delicate peony prints! Fall/Winter 2017 saw some of the most creative and downright unconventional floral prints seen to date. Colours were vibrant and outlandish, designs were ostentatious and gaudy, and the best part was that audiences loved every second of it.

Season after season, designers have slowly built up fashion lover’s appetite for more shocking floral prints. At Preen, one of the last biggest trends, the puffer coat was given a bright injection of watercolour florals. While at Christopher Kane, beautiful budding blooms exploded from simple slip dresses, adding a whimsical fairytale touch to the collection.

At Ryan Lo and Erdem, traditional English florals were spun into unconventional silhouettes to give a modern update to old world Victorian charm.

The Reimagined Suit

Theory, Thom Browne, Delpozo, Mulberry | Photos: Vogue Runway

Gone are the days of the 90’s power suit. Women now have a plethora of unique and interesting styles that are perfect for the boardroom. At Theory, Thom Browne, and Mulberry, plaids dominated. Adding a retro crispness to the modern suit. But the modern suit doesn’t just rely on a fresh print for an updated look.

At Mulberry and Delpozo, silhouettes were given exaggerated proportions to modernize the everyday suit’s silhouette. Broad shoulders and widened flared arms hark back to exaggerated Dynasty power suits, without leaving a tacky taste in your mouth.

However, the real winner has to be Thom Browne. For his fall 2017 collection, the master of suiting once again deconstructed the traditional suit and put it back together. Giving women the option of strong menswear-inspired looks as well as Edwardian era newspaper boy suits in whimsical gingham check. The collection presents an interesting take on the modern women’s suit. It showed that suiting doesn’t necessarily have to be cold and stoic — it can be interesting and even comical without taking away the commanding effect of the suit itself.

The New Trench

Derek Lam, Margaret Howell, The Row, MM6 Maison Margiela | Photos: Vogue Runway

It goes without saying that this season has been the season of the trench coat. Designers in every fashion capital have stormed the runway with their interpretations of floor-length trench coats, giving them modern updates, and unconventional silhouettes for the modern fashion aficionado to enjoy.

The most colourful of the bunch came from Derek Lam, who presented a lovely trench coat in red leather, conjuring up images of 1940’s Dick Tracey zoot suits. Meanwhile, Margaret Howell, The Row, and MM6 all opted for more traditional hues.

The most intriguing part of the modern trench coat is definitely the new proportions designers have given it. At The Row, trench coats were given extremely streamlined silhouettes by going sans buttons. While trenches at MM6, infused with traditional Japanese designs and tied at the waist with a very thin belt, almost resemble an unfinished kimono. Designs like these give the modern trench a fresh and exciting twist. This isn’t just your dad’s old London Fog coat anymore!

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New York Fashion Week f/w 2017: The Highlights

This season, fashion has entered a literal limbo. Many brands opted to show presentations and lookbooks rather than runway shows and others chose to leave their host cities to show elsewhere (we’re looking at you Proenza Schouler and La Perla). Apart from the chaos of fashion week itself, many designers were left with the task of creating collections that are not only relevant to today’s trends, but also relevant in response to the year’s unsteady and frightening beginning. The uncertain future of artistic freedom in the United States has made its impact on artists and designers around the world. Many have chosen to step back and tone down their collections for the sake of letting the important issues rise to the top, while others have stepped up to the task of opposing the current state of affairs in the US through their art. However, even those who’ve taken jabs at the US presidenct have done so in a very minute and almost unnoticeable way. Which has led this season’s collections to come off as more uninspired and, ultimately, underwhelming. Although not very politically charged, there were still a few collections that managed to stand out during New York’s fall 2017 line up. Fashion lovers rejoice, you still have something to cheer about in this sea of uncertainty.

Photo: Inez & Vinoodh

Nili Lotan

Sometimes the cure for a fashion drought is to look toward the brands that mainstream fashion tends to look over. Nili Lotan, a name that I presume only die-hard fashion lovers would recognize, presented a collection this season that would quench the thirst of even the most trained fashion eye. This season sees Lotan visiting extreme proportions with her trousers — think exaggerated palazzo pants. She created a slouchy and relaxed look that mirrors many streetwear trends happening right now, but it doesn’t come with the added overly casual “hype-beast-urban-Instagram-chic” look that seems to be dominating runways everywhere. As a whole, the collection is a smart and elegant reimagining of current trends that are bound to appeal to the most fashion forward millennials and style veterans alike.

Photo: Luca Tombolini

Delpozo

Josep Font has established himself as the new king of architectural design. His work for Delpozo has now solidified his place as one of the most forward thinking and interesting designers in the world right now. For his fall 2017 collection, Font has taken his traditional avant-garde designs and infused them with a 1960’s sense of futuristic space age design. Models walked out in knitted sweaters that continued all the way up to the model’s heads, creating a Jetsons-like space helmet that brought back memories of designers like Pucci and Courreges. Designs that didn’t incorporate Josep’s retro-futurism relied on the refined and modern elegance that brought him so much praise and fame during his introductory seasons at Delpozo. One smart feature was the addition of elegant billowing gowns that are perfect as any last minute award show additions for trendsetting celebs looking for a more forward-thinking silhouette for this year’s awards season.

The Row

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s now iconic house has hit cult status among fashion aficionados. With their staple black and whites, the Olson’s very rarely moved into the realm of colour with the only variance from black and white being a bright lipstick red and a muted mustard yellow. Now one would imagine it would be extremely difficult to create a collection that stands out using only white and black, but the Olsens have turned this into a science. They blended their go-to relaxed silhouettes with a refined tailoring that rivals that of the ateliers employed in Paris’ iconic fashion houses. The overall tone this season seemed to exude a masculinity, with many of the looks employing straight legged trousers and duster coats to give the collection a “harder edge.” Yet the Olsens’ expertise for design fuse what would be an extremely overbearing masculine silhouette with an elegant and refined air of femininity.

Photo: Monica Feudi

Zimmerman

European whimsy can be one of the hardest things to find in New York. The New York woman, more often than not, is a more relaxed and streetwise woman to her European counterpart. However, at this season’s Zimmerman show, the designer showed us that a New Yorker can also paint a fairytale for herself among the towers of steel and glass. Ruffles, a trend that has been dominating the fashion world for a little over a year now, was the grounding feature that pulled the entire collection together. Allowing for the collection to go from outright fantasy to the wearable and reasonable for the everyday woman. One of the most eye-catching and pleasing features of the collection were the additions of stripes, plaids, polka dots, and sequins, which gave the collection a modern and relevant appearance that can quickly be lost when a designer relies solely on romantic designs.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Alexander Wang

The Alexander Wang brand has become a go-to for any hip and influential millennial. But in the last few years, Wang’s brand seemed to be losing what made it so interesting and appealing to the youth of the fashion world. Fortunately, Alexander Wang’s fall 2017 collection went back to the brand’s roots and gave fashion lovers around the world exactly what they had been missing from the brand in recent years. His collection felt dark, moody, and modern, alternative, yet completely wearable, which is the perfect mixture for selling clothing in this day and age. Where fashion is more concerned about looking different (in a controlled and uniform way) rather than in a jarring and completely out there way.

Photo: Umberto Fratini

Self-Portrait

“Give the people what they want” seemed to be the direction that Self-Portrait designer Han Chong took this season. Stepping away from his usual lacy dresses and pretty things, Chong presented a collection steeped in New York cool. Plaid coats hit floor length while dresses in denim and Prince-of-Wales check came in ruffled and asymmetrical silhouettes. More whimsical looks were paired with slightly high waisted shorts to give them a more youthful and relevant appearance. Velvet dresses gave the collection its dose of modern and elegant evening wear, which has been a difficult feat for many young designers, especially in today’s street trend-obsessed society. Some looks like the ruffled polka dot and floral print blouses and dresses seemed a little disjointed with the modern edge the collection presented, but not enough to put off potential buyers looking for something a little more street relevant but refined.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Cushnie et Ochs

One of the biggest delights during NYFW was Cushnie et Ochs. Now in its 9th year of gracing the runways of New York, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have managed to stick to their guns and catapult their namesake brand to cult status among the fashion crowd and celebs alike. This year, the designers once again presented a collection deeply rooted in feminine sexuality and the beauty of the female body. Their staple cocktail length dresses were given a dose of modern minimalism, leaving only the fabric, fit, and models’ natural curves rather than gimmicks to wow onlookers. The ice blues and bold citrus yellows helped add colour to the monotonous black and white of the collection, while surprise pops of sequin paillettes hinted at what the designers may be cooking up for future collections. The most appealing looks came in the form of various decollete-baring dresses and a few two piece pant numbers that were sprinkled throughout the collection.

Photo: Frame

Frame

It’s a tried and tested fact the Swedes are masters at creating minimal and relevant clothing that understands today’s trends but moves to the beat of its own drum. And for designers Erik Torstensson and Jens Grede of Frame, the statement couldn’t be more appropriate. For Frame’s fall 2017 collection, the design duo has created a collection that mirrors this and last season’s most coveted trends — denim, 70’s eclectic rock chic, velvet, leopard print, shirting, androgyny, etc. — and infused them with a nordic sense of stylish ease. For example, rather than creating an outlandish reinterpretation of the Vetements suit that has been dominating the runway, Torstensson and Grede introduced a perfectly relaxed pantsuit that borrowed from last year’s dominating androgynous look and gave a fresh and less gimmicky appeal. Suiting that used 70’s inspired fabrics and prints à la Gucci were designed to stand alone, rather than be direct interpretations. Probably the biggest defining trait that Frame’s fall collection has is the designers’ ability to capture everything that is happening now in fashion in only 13 looks; something that takes even the most seasoned fashion veterans 40 or more looks to achieve. Designers Erik and Jens know exactly what they’re doing. They know who their clients are and how to give them exactly what they want. It’s safe to say that while the Instagram “influencers” will be throwing on the most garish and trend driven designs fashion heavyweights can pump out, the real fashion innovators will be wearing Frame.

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Art x Fashion: 5 Spring Looks Inspired by Mystical Landscapes at The AGO

Art and fashion have always gone hand in hand. Through the use of colour, texture, design, and more, both art and fashion have been able to invoke feelings, memories, and emotions within the people who interact with them. It’s said that those with a true appreciation for art can experience a masterpiece on a spiritual level; the same can be said of fashion. This in turn proves that fashion and art really aren’t that different. Both aim at creating an experience that goes deeper than what’s seen on a superficial level.

20161018_104433

This October, the Art Gallery of Ontario and the Musee D’Orsay have partnered to bring Mystical Landscapes to the AGO from October 22, until January 29. The exhibition aims at connecting the spiritual world and art. Masterpieces from around the world, some of them national treasures that have never left their home countries are now being displayed for all to see and experience until January. Novella magazine was recently invited to view the Mystical Landscapes exhibit during a media preview held by the AGO, where the countless masterpieces inspired a thought: Does life really imitate art and to what extent do the two coincide with one another? Here is a look at handful of the marvelous masterpieces being shown within the AGO, and the masterpieces of design that pair beautifully with them.

Photo: Delpozo
Photo: Delpozo

Wenzel Hablik – Starry Sky x Delpozo Resort 2017

Since the birth of the human race, man has always looked to the stars as a symbol of the spiritual world. It represents something visible, yet unreachable, terrifying, yet comforting. Czech artist Wenzel Hablik understood this deeply when creating his masterpiece Starry Sky. The majesty of space can be seen in the painting with the raw creative force of space swirling around until it meets at one central point. What that point is, we’ll never know, but it’s for that same reason that this painting is held in such high regard. Part of what makes up spirituality is not knowing what really lies beyond what we can see, and this painting does just that. Josep Font interprets the night sky in a very similar fashion to Hablik. The cosmic print on some of his resort collection carry the same feeling of movement as seen in the painting. There’s a sense of something untamed with the clothing itself. The seemingly random arrangement of stars splattered all over the pieces not only mirrors the untamed nature of Hablik’s stars, but also mimics our very own night sky.,

Photo: Umberto Fratini
Photo: Umberto Fratini

Claude Monet – Water Lilies x Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2017

Sometimes, all it takes is looking at a flower to experience an array of emotions. Joy, rage, sadness, serenity, and longing can all be felt depending on the flower and the memories associated with that flower. Claude Monet’s series of Water Lily paintings are another prime example of how flowers can convey emotions. The expressionist style and subject matter can instill a somber feeling, or a sense of serenity, depending on the viewer, just as flowers do in real life. Their mystery mixed with their beauty intrigue us and leave us wanting more. The same can be said for Simone Rocha’s ss17 woman. She’s mysterious, beautiful, and intimidating, just like a flower. The collection, which is rooted in all things organic, takes texture, shape, volume, and print and makes them fluid like Monet’s brush strokes. There’s a sense of expressionism within the collection. With many of the elements of the collection coming together to create a singular thought. There is one outfit in particular featured in the Mystical Landscapes exhibit that bares a striking resemblance to one of Monet’s Water Lilies. This particular sheer frock features a diaphanous silhouette, which is covered in ruffles and embroidery that closely resemble a group of water lilies drifting through a body of water. The look itself paints a serene picture, with the model looking fresh and soft, yet mysterious and reserved. It’s as though she was one of Monet’s flowers herself.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos
Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Eugene Jansson – Riddarfjarden x Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2017

One major highlight of the Mystical Landscapes exhibit is Eugene Jansson’s painting Riddarfjraden, which is regarded as a national treasure in its native homeland of Sweden. Now, some people would argue that making a painting a national treasure is silly, since it really has no monetary value other than the one that was made up for it. But rather, it’s not the cost of the artwork that makes it a treasure. It’s the moment in history that the painting captures which makes it a treasure. It’s the dark inky blue Swedish night lit up by streetlights and a rising or setting sun in the horizon that makes this a treasure. It’s the painter’s ability to capture a moment of sheer serenity that makes this more than a monetary treasure, it’s a treasure for the soul. Now treasures can be found in the world of fine art all the time, but in the fashion world, only the most distinct and emotion provoking outfits can be deemed as treasures. During Carolina Herrara’s ss17 collection, there occurred a few moments when fashion found it’s own treasures. Among the dozens of beautifully designed pieces, a handful of gowns stole the show. One such outfit was a denim blue dress that resembled Jansson‘s beautiful painting. The skirt, which is the real show stopper, takes on the life of Jansson’s brush strokes. The glossy fabric shines with a print that resembles water rippling and reflecting the light cast above it. It’s cold like the Jansson’s Swedish night, yet warm like the sun at its horizon. It instills a sense of magic, just like the Swedish master did in his painting.

 

Photo: Luca Trombolini
Photo: Luca Trombolini

Georgia O’Keefe – Red Hills x Aganovich Spring/Summer 2017

Colour has always been a vital ingredient in creating both beautiful art and fashion. In Georgia O’Keefe’s world, colour is one of the single most important factors in creating a masterpiece. For her painting Red Hills, O’Keefe used bright and bold flashes of white, black, and red. The painting resembles an explosion, with all three colours working with one another to convey the artist’s internal emotion. The painting, which showcases a dark and brooding atmosphere, is offset by the brilliant white sun at its center. Although vastly different, this duality actually blends together perfectly allowing the contrasting colours to compliment one another rather than clash. For Aganovich’s ss17 show, bright contrasts in colour were a very important aspect of the collection. The bright ruby red of the outfit against the models stark porcelain skin mirrors the contrasts in colour created by Georgia O’Keefe in her painting. Like O’Keefe, the contrasts creates a dark atmosphere around the model, drawing you in for a closer look. Creating a sense of brooding darkness with the deep red of that gown that’s immediately offset by the model’s pristine completion. The entire look fights with itself as it conveys what it really is; is it dark and gothic, or is it angelic and pristine? But it’s in this exact duality that the look comes alive. It isn’t one or the other, it’s a perfect balance of the two.

 

Photo: Umberto Fratini
Photo: Umberto Fratini

Emily Carr – Sky x Aalto Spring/Summer 2017

Another aspect that art uses is uniformity. In Emily Carr’s Sky, Carr uses different shades of blue and beige to create a monochrome uniformity within the painting. The painting depicts a celestial occurrence, wherein the clouds swirl around one another, as if being mixed by an unseen heavenly force. The different shades of blue, ranging from the softest powder blue, to a deep navy, all work with one another to create different levels of depth and movement. This sense of depth, paired alongside the wisps of white seen among the different blues, create the illusion that the painting is singing a glorious yen to the sky, and whatever might be just beyond our range of human understanding. At Aalto, designer Tuomas Merikoski presented a collection heavily based in monochrome colour combinations. Light wash denim was paired with smart powder blue suiting and delicate navy lace to create levels of depth within the outfit, just as Carr did in Sky. Now sometimes dressing in one singular colour can confuse the eye, since it’s hard to tell when one piece ends and another begins. While at other times, monochrome outfits may come off as uninspired and boring. However, Aalto’s use of varying blues creates a sense of movement, separation, and surprise within the outfit. Allowing the eye to follow a path that starts with the denim jacket and ends in the center with the navy blouse in the same way Carr uses her blues to help guide the eye to the central location of her painting. 

The Best Newcomers at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week has always been a staple for introducing the fashion world to emerging talent. Every season countless fashion lovers flock to New York in hopes of catching a glimpse at the future of fashion. This season, a small group of fashion designers proved themselves to be more than capable of designing beautiful and relevant clothing, all the while steering their respective brands down the path of fashion longevity. Here are the top 5 best brands among the NYFW newcomers.

Photo: Luca Tombolini
Photo: Luca Tombolini

Delpozo

Since being named creative head for Delpozo, after Jesus Del Pozo’s death. Josep Font has managed to breathe life into the iconic Spanish house. With every passing season, Josep manages to surprise fans and loyal fans of the brand with touches of whimsy that isn’t particularly common in the New York fashion seen. His ability to bring a story to life through design is on par with the best designers in the world, and Delpozo’s spring 2017 collection is raw proof of his talent. The collection carries on last season’s feeling of fairytale whimsy. All the while toning down the bright jewel tones and citrus hues from last season and replaces bold colour blocking statements with quirky florals and candy colour plaids. The collection also steps away from the simple neutrals and darker colours seen on the runway this season.

Apart from the expected whimsy of the show, the highlights of the collection are the unexpected uses of volume throughout. Oversized shoulders and ruffles adorn pant suits, while jackets and coats are finished with oversized sleeves. In term son evening wearing, Josep carried on his usual knack for impressive fairytale glamour, opting for pastels and patterns on floor length tulle and chiffon gowns, giving the entire collection a Wonderland-esque feel.

Photo: Umberto Fratini
Photo: Umberto Fratini

Monse

The creative duo at Monse have once again struck fashion gold with their spring / summer 2017 collection. After only one year, Monse has quickly become a headliner at NYFW, due to the simple fact that creative directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim have a sheer and undeniable talent for design. Their collection presents the wearer with a powerful and unapologetic sexiness, paired with an ease that only New York can offer. However, the easy-going vibe of the collection doesn’t mean the women look disheveled. At a first glance, the outfits may look undone and unkempt, but that’s appeal Monse put forth this season, a woman who’s effortless in the way she dresses. All she needs is a relaxed trouser and an off the shoulder pin-stripped shirt and she’s ready to take on the day, night, or week. Simply put, Monse is a brand that is pleasantly and actively pushing fashion forward. Gone are the days of theatrical European dressing and over the top glamour. Today’s fashion forward woman understands the beauty of simplicity, tailoring, and an effortless sense of luxury and knows exactly how to wear it and Monse is there to provide it’s clientele with smart and easy everyday luxury garments.

Standout pieces include a beautifully tailored shirt dress paired with a bright fire engine red belt, a black pin-stripe trouser worn with a clean white shirt, an off the shoulder long sleeve gown in orange sequins, a black trouser worn with a long royal blue and red sequin blouse, and a simple white shirt dress worn with a black pin-stripe skirt worn over top to add depth.

Photo: Cinq a Sept
Photo: Cinq a Sept

Cinq a Sept

It seems that classic 70’s styles and silhouettes keep infiltrating modern design. After seeing key 70’s inspired pieces appear on every major runway for the past few seasons, a few changes had to be made to keep the trend fresh and alive. This season at Cinq à Sept, designer Jane Siskin presented a collection that takes the already strong 70’s trend and infuses it with a quirky and youthful spin that keeps the collection relevant and not passé. Jane achieved this by infusing prints that would otherwise be considered doughty, and paired them with either striking modern silhouettes or modern fabric pairings. Another key design feature of the collection is the addition of dark-wash denim that pulls the 70’s look together and ultimately modernizes the collection, allowing it to take on the persona of a young, fashionable girl who has a refined taste for contemporary clothing and soft vintage flare. She’s the girl that skips club nights to attend important art presentations. She drinks her coffee strong, with just a touch of sugar. She’s old school, yet completely contemporary in everything she does.

Highlights of the collection include a dark denim skirt worn with a white cropped bell  sleeve blouse, a wide leg — high waisted denim pant worn with a white poet shirt and black bralette over top, a multi-patterned spaghetti strap dress in oxblood and soft navy, a silky camel coloured slip dress paired with a blush trench coat over top, and a chic black mini dress that was transformed into a stunning evening gown with just the simple addition of a skirt tied around the waist.

Photo: Vogue Runway
Photo: Vogue Runway

Ji Oh

A common misconception with contemporary minimalism is that it isn’t complex. Most people view minimalism as stark whites or black, with simple silhouettes that aren’t meant to stand out. However, minimalism has evolved over the years. What would once have been deemed over the top and disheveled, is now at the cutting edge of minimalist design. Designer Ji Oh completely understands this notion and embraces it, pushing minimalism forward by creating expressions of androgyny in her womenswear collections. The collection carries a strong “is it male, is it female?” feel to it that surely appeals to the modern New York woman. The bright pops of yellow pair beautifully alongside the crisp whites and black of the collection. With the focal point of the collection being Ji Oh’s relaxed approach to layering and volume, seen in every design of her collection.

Key Pieces of the collection include various trousers, in white, black, and yellow that have been split to the knees, a long palazzo-esque pant paired with an airy capelette blouse, a floor length mustard yellow vest, and a smart shirt dress worn loosely and belted at the waist.

Photo: Self-Portrait
Photo: Self-Portrait

Self-Portrait

Self-Portrait’s spring / summer collection was an enjoyable opposite to what has been going on among the lesser recognizable brands at NYFW who were more keen on  androgyne minimalism and modern design, rather than leaning towards feminine touches and silhouettes. However, this doesn’t mean that either one is more relevant than the other and designer Han Chong understands this. This season, Self-Portrait’s audience was treated to a refined sense of modern femininity, kissed with light touches of androgynous military design. The collection conjures up images of a fun and flirty girl who floats carelessly and happily from place to place. In an almost whimsical way, Han explores what feminine design is by pairing lace overlays and ruffles with high waisted — military trousers, skirts, and blouses. Another key element to Han’s designs are his incorporation of muted pastels (like lavender, blush pink, and yolk) with dark neutrals and various hues of wine. This creates the perfect contrast between sweet and seductive. The most striking facet in Self-Portrait’s ss17 collection is how effortless it looks. It doesn’t look like fashion trying to be fashion, it isn’t trying to be something is not. It’s simply beautiful clothing made for women with refined and delicate taste.

Standout pieces in Han’s collection are a pair of ochre coloured military trousers, a ruffled high neck knit in nude with peekaboo shoulders and lemon yellow stripes, a periwinkle mini dress that sports a crisp white collar and a black lace overlay, a wonderfully abstract — off the shoulder lilac blouse paired with a deep olive coloured skirt, a black military pant and matching off the shoulder mesh blouse, and the sweetest blush pink tea dress in mesh.