Trend Report: New York and London f/w17

New York and London have just finished presenting their takes on fashion’s fastest growing trends. Designers had their hands in everything from florals to plaid, creating a fashion wonderland for all to see and appreciate. However, not every trend was something worth cheering over and not every trend from last year had the staying power to push into this season. In spite of all of that, five trends managed to dominate the runway this season at NYFW and LFW. Some of them are interpretations and modernizations of trends that have been going strong for a little while now, while others are fresh and following the beat of what’s going on around them.

Here are the 5 trends that swept the stage during New York and London fashion weeks:

Modern Plaids

Marc Jacobs, J. JS Lee, Anna Sui, Osman | Photos: Vogue Runway

The staple print of the 1970’s is back again with a vengeance this season. After slowly sneaking into almost every collection under the sun over the past year, this season’s take on the iconic intersecting stripes seems to have a bit more bite to it.

It seems that mustard is the go-to plaid punch colour this season. Designers like Marc Jacobs and Osman have created their own takes on mustard plaid coats that look beautifully modern, yet nostalgically retro.

Now mustard may have been every plaid loving designer’s sweetheart this season, but many other designers opted for more neutral tones instead. At Anna Sui and J. JS. Lee, Prince of Wales check coats and suits came in simple yet punchy neutrals of black and tan that pumped the heritage look of the check with a little youthful pizzazz.

Protest Apparel

Creatures of Comfort, Gareth Pugh, Prabal Gurung, Ashish | Photos: Vogue Runway

Political injustices that have been sweeping across the United States has inspired a plethora of designers and artists to push past what’s been socially acceptable as a collection to create what are now being dubbed “protest collections.

This season has seen countless designers present their personal opinions against the current U.S. presidency by incorporating graphic and stylistic design elements into their collections. For example, graphic tees and sweatshirts were the highlights at Creatures of Comfort, Prabal Gurung, and Ashish. Models strutted down the runway in garments that either directly quoted many of Donald Trump’s ludicrous catchphrases or directly opposed them by sending messages of peace and empowerment.

However, one collection really stood out by breaking down walls and really pushing the boundary of what politically charged fashion can be. This season at Gareth Pugh, models were dressed in military inspired outfits that so closely resembled modern Nazi uniforms that it felt uncomfortable to even watch the show — which was Pugh’s brilliant intention. Model after model stormed the runway in haunting makeup and beautifully tailored military garb that represented Pugh’s vision of what America’s future may look like if a fascist government sinks its teeth into it for too long. The runway music was a cacophonous array of jumbled songs, speeches, and easily recognizable American media that mimicked CIA audios of torture used on prisoners. The collection did not break from a completely black colour scheme, only adding to the doom and gloom that Pugh wanted to express. In the end, the collection is a strong representation of creative visions that designers will start to express as the world around them become little less bright as time goes on.

Alternative Florals

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, Christopher Kane, Ryan Lo, Erdem | Photos: Vogue Runway

These aren’t your grandma’s delicate peony prints! Fall/Winter 2017 saw some of the most creative and downright unconventional floral prints seen to date. Colours were vibrant and outlandish, designs were ostentatious and gaudy, and the best part was that audiences loved every second of it.

Season after season, designers have slowly built up fashion lover’s appetite for more shocking floral prints. At Preen, one of the last biggest trends, the puffer coat was given a bright injection of watercolour florals. While at Christopher Kane, beautiful budding blooms exploded from simple slip dresses, adding a whimsical fairytale touch to the collection.

At Ryan Lo and Erdem, traditional English florals were spun into unconventional silhouettes to give a modern update to old world Victorian charm.

The Reimagined Suit

Theory, Thom Browne, Delpozo, Mulberry | Photos: Vogue Runway

Gone are the days of the 90’s power suit. Women now have a plethora of unique and interesting styles that are perfect for the boardroom. At Theory, Thom Browne, and Mulberry, plaids dominated. Adding a retro crispness to the modern suit. But the modern suit doesn’t just rely on a fresh print for an updated look.

At Mulberry and Delpozo, silhouettes were given exaggerated proportions to modernize the everyday suit’s silhouette. Broad shoulders and widened flared arms hark back to exaggerated Dynasty power suits, without leaving a tacky taste in your mouth.

However, the real winner has to be Thom Browne. For his fall 2017 collection, the master of suiting once again deconstructed the traditional suit and put it back together. Giving women the option of strong menswear-inspired looks as well as Edwardian era newspaper boy suits in whimsical gingham check. The collection presents an interesting take on the modern women’s suit. It showed that suiting doesn’t necessarily have to be cold and stoic — it can be interesting and even comical without taking away the commanding effect of the suit itself.

The New Trench

Derek Lam, Margaret Howell, The Row, MM6 Maison Margiela | Photos: Vogue Runway

It goes without saying that this season has been the season of the trench coat. Designers in every fashion capital have stormed the runway with their interpretations of floor-length trench coats, giving them modern updates, and unconventional silhouettes for the modern fashion aficionado to enjoy.

The most colourful of the bunch came from Derek Lam, who presented a lovely trench coat in red leather, conjuring up images of 1940’s Dick Tracey zoot suits. Meanwhile, Margaret Howell, The Row, and MM6 all opted for more traditional hues.

The most intriguing part of the modern trench coat is definitely the new proportions designers have given it. At The Row, trench coats were given extremely streamlined silhouettes by going sans buttons. While trenches at MM6, infused with traditional Japanese designs and tied at the waist with a very thin belt, almost resemble an unfinished kimono. Designs like these give the modern trench a fresh and exciting twist. This isn’t just your dad’s old London Fog coat anymore!

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Novella Editors Summarize Their Style Using SS17 Runway Looks

Inspired by Vogue, we loved the idea of summarizing our style in three runway looks. Because sometimes we feel like designers can see inside our heads and hearts and feel exactly what we need and throw it on the runway, the fashion team at Novella decided to mood board our style using Spring ’17 runway looks.

Isabel Mundigo-Moore, Fashion Editor

L to R: Creatures of Comfort (Luca Tombolini, Indigital), Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Rejina Pyo

I love a muted colour palette, loose silhouettes, and pieces that hold their structure and shape. Because I don’t wear too much colour, I like to play around with volume, shape, and layering. I love minimalist pieces with interesting design details–extra large pockets, tiny collars, long sleeves–or pieces that evoke a moment from the past. My style is centred on the idea of investing in pieces that will last forever, pieces that I will want to mend over and over, that are timeless (pardon the cliché). Above everything, I feel most confident when I comfortable.

Drew Brown, Editor-in-Chief 

L to R: Gucci, Raf Simons, Robert Geller | Photos: Vogue

My style changes daily based on mood. I am not a morning person, so picking out what to wear can be cumbersome. It’s important that each outfit can easily take me from day to night if needed. I choose looks from Gucci, Raf Simons, and Robert Geller spring ’17 collections. Each look to me feels effortless but still very fashionable.  I tend to buy and gravitate towards pieces that are interchangeable rather than the current trend.

Celia Fernandez, Fashion Features Editor

L to R: Beaufille, Valentino, J.Crew

Ever since culottes came back (around three or four seasons ago), I’ve been completely in love/obsessed with them. For the past two seasons I believe I bought around eight, and I’m not planning to stop. Culottes are cool in any format or version, but if we add a high waist and kick flare to the equation, the result is explosive. Given that my body type isn’t necessary curvy, when it comes to dresses, I love clean lines and simple shapes. However, I like the dress to have some character so, if I find an original fabric or a fun color combination, I’m sold! Finally, I have to talk about my dearest denim. Besides oxygen and water, the third element I need to survive is denim – and chocolate, probably -. I will never get enough of jeans and if you are wondering what I’ll keep buying till 2074, the answer is simple: high-waisted and cropped.

Claire Ball, Editorial Contributor

L to R: Saint Laurent, Band of Outsiders, Yeezy | Photos: Vogue

I tend to stick with what I know, so my style is very repetitive. I often purchase the same item in multiple colours because I know I like it. Overall my style is pretty casual, and I usually go for things that are easily interchangeable with other outfits. I like plain, basic t-shirts, tank tops, and dresses paired with some kind of layer on top, like a jacket or vest. I am really into outwear and layering. Layering oversized shirts (I’m a sucker for plaid), and dresses with hoodies, or leather, jean, or bomber jackets are my go-to. I love wearing all black. Nothing makes me feel more confident and on my game than wearing all black everything.

Jennifer Lee, Marketing Coordinator

L to R: Fendi, Isabel Marant, Christian Dior
L to R: Fendi, Isabel Marant, Christian Dior | Photo: Vogue

I’m often in one outfit from early in the morning until past midnight. Rather than taking too many factors like occasion or practicality into consideration, I try to get through my long days by wearing what best reflects my style. I’m happiest this way. Religiously gravitating towards romantic silhouettes, I find myself pairing blouses and denim or structured shorts like a uniform. If I could mix in all these details to any daily fits, they’d be: ruffles, bows, beaded details, silky PJs, and oversized sleeves. Oh, and all the looks I adore from Zimmermann, Chloe, and Isabel Marant runways.

I am currently layering camisoles and bralette tops over every single piece I pick up from my closet (everyday- it’s become a little obssessive). There are definitely some outfits that make me feel more like “me”, and I’m constantly reaching out to find more of these. My favourite thing to hear is, “you are wearing a very Jen outfit”. It’s one thing to put on clothes for the sake of walking out the door, but there is a distinctive narrative to one’s style, which I believe radiates naturally once one is  comfortable with their worldview towards fashion and the varying ways of portrayal. I remind myself to stay true to my own style, because I really believe in the power of connecting with others using outfits as the medium of message- like the time I wore the same shoes as Celia during my Novella interview!

Christopher Zaghi, Fashion Writer

L to R: Issey Miyake ss17, Comme Des Garcons Shirt ss17, Hopman Design ss17 / Photos: Vogue
L to R: Issey Miyake ss17, Comme Des Garcons Shirt ss17, Topman Design ss17 | Photos: Vogue

In my opinion, personal style is probably one of, if not the most important thing a person must discover if they’d like to work within the fashion industry. Anyone can wear trends as they’re put together by designers, but it’s personal style shows adaptability and freedom. It allows you to put your own personal touch into what’s being sent down the runway, rather than just wearing it straight off of the runway. However, building your own sense of personal style is a difficult talent to learn. Being able to pull things apart to make them your own is a skill that I’m always learning and developing. Often times, it’s hard for me to express my personal style; it’s something that’s ever changing. It’s almost liquid in a sense. One day I may lean towards something a tad bit gothic, other times I’ll lean towards softer, more effervescent looks, while other times it’s athletic wear that catches my eye. It’s this simple mish mash of style choices that truly defines me as a person. That’s why I chose three distinct looks that blend the light and airy colour pallet at Issey Miyake, the gothic elements at Comme Des Garcons Shirt, and a touch of sportswear from the Topman Design collection to truly showcase how flexible my personal style is.

Another aspect of my personal that plays a big part in how I dress is the fact that I’ve never really liked formal wear, so I tend to avoid it at all costs. Luckily, the ss17 collections for men seemed to separate themselves from traditional formal wear for men, and in turn, introduced a new idea for what can be considered luxurious and formal for a man. In the end, It’s really all of these elements that make me who I am style wise. I guess i’m just your average run-of-the-mill 80’s workout wear, suit hating, pastel loving, classic goth appreciating style icon – In my own mind that is!

Liat Neuman, Fashion Writer

L To R: Chloe, Rochas, Proenza Schouler

During the spring time, I love to wear easy breezy pieces and I also have a weakness to a pop of colour, which I know can add a fresh and playful touch to my appearance.

Chloe: The bohemian and free-spirited hippie vibes always inspired me. I love the delicate pieces, such as the airy maxi dress and  I admire the silhouettes that are voluminous yet relaxed.

Rochas: You can’t go wrong with a slip dress worn over a light sweater in shades of beige and the peplum details on top are instantly adding an edgy sophistication to the feminine springy look.

I adore this cool look from Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2017 collection. The bold colours, statement earrings, and the way they play with proportions are all things on my personal style checklist. This asymmetrical skirt paired with oversize sweatshirt is a great pick for an everyday look.