Trend Report: New York and London f/w17

New York and London have just finished presenting their takes on fashion’s fastest growing trends. Designers had their hands in everything from florals to plaid, creating a fashion wonderland for all to see and appreciate. However, not every trend was something worth cheering over and not every trend from last year had the staying power to push into this season. In spite of all of that, five trends managed to dominate the runway this season at NYFW and LFW. Some of them are interpretations and modernizations of trends that have been going strong for a little while now, while others are fresh and following the beat of what’s going on around them.

Here are the 5 trends that swept the stage during New York and London fashion weeks:

Modern Plaids

Marc Jacobs, J. JS Lee, Anna Sui, Osman | Photos: Vogue Runway

The staple print of the 1970’s is back again with a vengeance this season. After slowly sneaking into almost every collection under the sun over the past year, this season’s take on the iconic intersecting stripes seems to have a bit more bite to it.

It seems that mustard is the go-to plaid punch colour this season. Designers like Marc Jacobs and Osman have created their own takes on mustard plaid coats that look beautifully modern, yet nostalgically retro.

Now mustard may have been every plaid loving designer’s sweetheart this season, but many other designers opted for more neutral tones instead. At Anna Sui and J. JS. Lee, Prince of Wales check coats and suits came in simple yet punchy neutrals of black and tan that pumped the heritage look of the check with a little youthful pizzazz.

Protest Apparel

Creatures of Comfort, Gareth Pugh, Prabal Gurung, Ashish | Photos: Vogue Runway

Political injustices that have been sweeping across the United States has inspired a plethora of designers and artists to push past what’s been socially acceptable as a collection to create what are now being dubbed “protest collections.

This season has seen countless designers present their personal opinions against the current U.S. presidency by incorporating graphic and stylistic design elements into their collections. For example, graphic tees and sweatshirts were the highlights at Creatures of Comfort, Prabal Gurung, and Ashish. Models strutted down the runway in garments that either directly quoted many of Donald Trump’s ludicrous catchphrases or directly opposed them by sending messages of peace and empowerment.

However, one collection really stood out by breaking down walls and really pushing the boundary of what politically charged fashion can be. This season at Gareth Pugh, models were dressed in military inspired outfits that so closely resembled modern Nazi uniforms that it felt uncomfortable to even watch the show — which was Pugh’s brilliant intention. Model after model stormed the runway in haunting makeup and beautifully tailored military garb that represented Pugh’s vision of what America’s future may look like if a fascist government sinks its teeth into it for too long. The runway music was a cacophonous array of jumbled songs, speeches, and easily recognizable American media that mimicked CIA audios of torture used on prisoners. The collection did not break from a completely black colour scheme, only adding to the doom and gloom that Pugh wanted to express. In the end, the collection is a strong representation of creative visions that designers will start to express as the world around them become little less bright as time goes on.

Alternative Florals

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, Christopher Kane, Ryan Lo, Erdem | Photos: Vogue Runway

These aren’t your grandma’s delicate peony prints! Fall/Winter 2017 saw some of the most creative and downright unconventional floral prints seen to date. Colours were vibrant and outlandish, designs were ostentatious and gaudy, and the best part was that audiences loved every second of it.

Season after season, designers have slowly built up fashion lover’s appetite for more shocking floral prints. At Preen, one of the last biggest trends, the puffer coat was given a bright injection of watercolour florals. While at Christopher Kane, beautiful budding blooms exploded from simple slip dresses, adding a whimsical fairytale touch to the collection.

At Ryan Lo and Erdem, traditional English florals were spun into unconventional silhouettes to give a modern update to old world Victorian charm.

The Reimagined Suit

Theory, Thom Browne, Delpozo, Mulberry | Photos: Vogue Runway

Gone are the days of the 90’s power suit. Women now have a plethora of unique and interesting styles that are perfect for the boardroom. At Theory, Thom Browne, and Mulberry, plaids dominated. Adding a retro crispness to the modern suit. But the modern suit doesn’t just rely on a fresh print for an updated look.

At Mulberry and Delpozo, silhouettes were given exaggerated proportions to modernize the everyday suit’s silhouette. Broad shoulders and widened flared arms hark back to exaggerated Dynasty power suits, without leaving a tacky taste in your mouth.

However, the real winner has to be Thom Browne. For his fall 2017 collection, the master of suiting once again deconstructed the traditional suit and put it back together. Giving women the option of strong menswear-inspired looks as well as Edwardian era newspaper boy suits in whimsical gingham check. The collection presents an interesting take on the modern women’s suit. It showed that suiting doesn’t necessarily have to be cold and stoic — it can be interesting and even comical without taking away the commanding effect of the suit itself.

The New Trench

Derek Lam, Margaret Howell, The Row, MM6 Maison Margiela | Photos: Vogue Runway

It goes without saying that this season has been the season of the trench coat. Designers in every fashion capital have stormed the runway with their interpretations of floor-length trench coats, giving them modern updates, and unconventional silhouettes for the modern fashion aficionado to enjoy.

The most colourful of the bunch came from Derek Lam, who presented a lovely trench coat in red leather, conjuring up images of 1940’s Dick Tracey zoot suits. Meanwhile, Margaret Howell, The Row, and MM6 all opted for more traditional hues.

The most intriguing part of the modern trench coat is definitely the new proportions designers have given it. At The Row, trench coats were given extremely streamlined silhouettes by going sans buttons. While trenches at MM6, infused with traditional Japanese designs and tied at the waist with a very thin belt, almost resemble an unfinished kimono. Designs like these give the modern trench a fresh and exciting twist. This isn’t just your dad’s old London Fog coat anymore!

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London Fashion Week SS17 Trend Report

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Photo: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

In the fashion month line up, London comes right after New York and before Milan and Paris. Its slotted place between the American fashion capital and the two European fashion cities might mark it as the style that lies somewhere between the urban chic of New York and the traditional glamour and elegance of Milan and Paris. But as we all know, London does not just fall between styles, it is the rebel child of fashion–always has been–and proved it as such again this London Fashion Week. Here are the trends that came out of LFW Spring/Summer 2017 (or, in Burberry‘s case, AW16. See? Rebels).

Sheer

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Christopher Kane SS17 | Photo: Indigital

Sheer anything seems to be going nowhere. Think of it as an edgier way to go lighter for spring. Seen at Christopher Kane paired with a floral decal leather jacket, because…floral leathers for spring? Yes.

Preen SS!7 | Photo: Indigital
Preen SS17 | Photo: Indigital

Elegance

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Erdem SS17 | Photo: Indigital

 Elegance. Is it possible for it to trend? So it may seem. Perhaps in reaction to the athleisure trend, perhaps not, but there is a tone on the runways that emits refined, almost dare I say “ladylike” (though I hate the word) elegance. These women evoke our grandmothers, who looked at getting dressed as a most particular activity, one done with great care and decisive choice.

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Emilia Wickstead SS17 | Photo: Indigital

The Uniform

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Mulberry SS17 | Photo: Indigital

Structured jackets that call to mind the military uniform are unsurprising for a British catwalk. The history, always present in London, and tradition of English institutions have always influenced fashion. The military uniform is once again at the forefront.

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Burberry AW16 | Photo: Indigital

Uneven Hemlines

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J.W. Anderson SS17 | Photo: Indigital

Deconstructing the classics this season is the uneven hemline. Seen at everywhere from JW Anderson to Preen. This will be a big one for Spring as the dress silhouette, in all lengths and sleeve sizes.

Full Pants

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Roksanda SS17 | Photo: Indigital

Proper, full pants are here at long last and their sturdy dispositions (Can pants have those? I think so.) leads me to believe that they are not going anywhere for a while. Beautiful with a strong jacket, but also lovely with a long dress layered on top, the full pant is slyly versatile.

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Preen SS17 | Photo: Indigital
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Burberry AW16 | Photo: Indigital

One month one style: Furry Feet

Summer is almost over, so whether you are excited for the first blast of Autumn air or still trying to hold on to these last days of summer, one thing is for sure: the new season means refreshing your wardrobe with new clothes. To make the transition a bit smoother, let me introduce you to hottest trend of the month that can be easily incorporated into your current summer-y wardrobe: furry shoes.

Fur has always been one of the top trends during the colder seasons. But for fall 2016, the fur has been extended into our footwear! After observing all the biggest runway shows, we can definitely say that hairy and furry shoes are more relevant than ever. From high heels to slides, sneakers, boots and loafers, everything will look that much trendier with fur, so don’t hesitate to release your inner wild side and open up your mind for the unexpected new addition to your shoes.

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Gucci Loafers | Photo: Man-Repeller, Who What Wear

Here are five ways to give your shoes the fur treatment:     

1. The Funky Touch: Slides

These rubber base shoes that  usually function as a shower shoes or for pool activities got a fancy update: fur! It all started when Rihanna released a new line of furry slides with Puma. As expected, they sold out the moment they went online and from that point onward the furry slide became a footwear phenomenon.

Slipping them on instantly creates a fashion forward statement. You can basically wear them with any look. Cropped trousers, boyfriend jeans or skinnies are all great options that will give your look a fun boost. But hurry up, the funky slides can’t be worn when the temperatures drop are dropping down.

Rihanna modeling fur slides from her Fenty x Puma line.
Photo: Puma/ Splash news

2. The fancy feet: Sandals

We all know that fur has a fall/winter feel to it, so fur sandals are the perfect shoe for the transition from summer to fall.

Following in the footsteps of Gucci, which gave their heels edgy an interpretation last fall, other designers such as Fendi, Alexander Mcqueeen and Blumarine introduced their vision to the fur mania: two strap sandals covered with fur, tuft of fur in the middle of open toe shoe or ankle strap sandals with cut-out wedge heels and a lot of hairy details.

Alexander McQueen show, Backstage, Autumn Winter 2016, London Fashion Week, Britain - 21 Feb 2016
Alexander McQueen | Photo: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
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Photo: Fendi

3. Just a glimpse, Loafers with fur lining

If you are not crazy about all of these hairy shoes , there is another way to channel your fashion forward look: leather shoes with fuzzy soles.

The statement loafers with the fur lining are definitely a must-have for fall footwear, and even though they scream attention, there is something about them that has got us hooked. It comes as no surprise that It-girls and fashion influencers, like Alexa Chung, Leandra Medine or Mary Kate Olsen, have indulged themselves with these Gucci loafers. We adore them simply because they match with any fall outfit, plus they are so comfortable you will never want to take them off.

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Photo credit: Gucci Fall Winter 2016 campaign.

4. Pompomania, Furry pom pom shoes

Colourful pom-poms elevate any casual look to a pure fun and help any woman embrace her flirty, girly side. This fall, pom-poms have returned in full swing as footwear accessories. Top designers gave their interpretation to the charming pom-pom. Dolce and Gabbana, which have been the pioneers of the trend, introduced their metallic pumps with the fun fur embellishment. To feed up our cheerleader spirit, Fendi featured colourful fluffy heels. Sonia Rykiel’s pom pom version was more sensual and feminine with an oversized pom-pom attached to the front of the shoes.

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L to R: Sonia Rykiel, Dolce and Gabbana | Photos: Giovanni Giannoni/Fairchild, REX Shutterstock

5. Fur trimming

Experimenting with different materials is one of the biggest trends in footwear this season. Designers are no longer satisfied showing conventional shoes on the runway. Instead, they are willing to invest in unique details like fur accents. BCBG, for example, showcased snakeskin shoes with a fur band on top and chunky fur lined heels. At Christopher Kane, the kicks got a luxury update with fur that cover the feet, ensuring that we will be safe from the chilly breeze. The fur-attached shoes not only will keep your feet warm and cozy, which is obviously an essential addition to your winter wardrobe, but also will add a touch of modern glam to your appearance.

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BCBG, Christopher Kane| Photos: Getty Images