Paris fashion week, regardless if it’s men’s or women’s, is always a week to look forward to. If we really take the time to look at the collections and designers presented, we can see that Paris is really a culmination of the best of the best. This season, the collections seemed far more reigned in than what’s been presented during prior seasons. But that isn’t to say that the shows were lacklustre, in fact, this season’s collections seemed far more fashion-forward and relevant than ever; putting a real emphasis on impeccable design and taste rather than selling trend.
Demeulemeester is the undisputed label for modern gothic elegance. Now, many brands have ventured into the realm of gothic romanticism. However, Demeulemeester’s label, regardless if Ann was at the helm of not, has managed to understand the DNA of romantic design. On many occasions, designers manage to create gothic collections based too heavily on costume or period design, however, Demeulemeester always imbues their period based designs with a razor’s edge contemporary flare that leaves each collection looking fresh rather than coffin ready. This season, the label’s knack for gothic glamour once again brought the idea of Edwardian beauty to the European runway. But as always, the collection was immersed in modern trends and silhouettes that make each piece approachable and relevant with what’s going on in fashion at the moment.
Enfants Riche Deprimes
Seeing anything that remotely resembles Ivy League school clothing is just pure fun. It harks back to a time when young adults used what they wore to convey an image of scholarly excellence. Everyone is familiar with the typical preppy get up many old-school Ivy Leaguer’s used to wear back in their hay day, however, at Enfants Riches Deprimes, the typical preppy outfit was injected with a fresh take of modern edge. Think Prep school vs. the 60s Mod with a big dose of millennial attitude.
Pierpaolo has always had a knack for using colour. This season at Valentino, rich bursts of colours were paired with deep blacks and soft neutrals to create colour palettes that seemed to resembles a painter’s oils. Deep reds and hunter greens jumped out when paired with inky blacks and baby blues. But it wasn’t just about the colours used for the collection, it was about how everything was tied to the contemporary idea of millennial athleisure. Now, athleisure as a trend has started to lose momentum in the eyes of many. One of the main problems with the trend is how very one-note it can be. However, at Valentino, the subtle elegance of formalwear changes the idea of what athleisure can be, giving the collection a far more mature and high fashion appeal, while still remaining fresh and genuine, rather than stuffy and pretentious.
Wooyoungmi is a brand that’s often left overlooked by those who aren’t familiar with contemporary European brands. Even still, Wooyoungmi continues to be a defining brand among modern menswear labels. At this season’s show, the 80s was back in action. Many of them looked as if they could have come straight from any of the Back To The Future movies. The long oversized duster coats were perfect for recreating iconic looks from movies like The Breakfast Club and Say Anything. While the shiny pleathers and leathers mirror new wave pop bands like Devo and the B52’s. All in all, the collection is really the perfect opportunity for men to try out some modern 80s fashion trends without having to go to stumple into the realm of 80s excess.