At a time when London really needs some uplifting inspiration after the various terrorist attacks in the city and Manchester, London Fashion Week Men’s was nothing short of celebratory of its people and their differences that make the city unique. What was consistent among many of the designers was their ability to blur gender norms in fashion and to incorporate a sense of openness. Whether it is by print, fitting proportions, or the models themselves, here are some highlights from London Fashion Week Men’s that proves how androgyny is the new black!
TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION
One of the first shows of the fashion week, Tourne De Transmission indicated vibrant and utilitarian looks for fall. The models have a flair of androgyny to them as the collection selects multiple genders to showcase their men’s line. The male skirt, since last year, has been making a statement against gender norms. Tourne De Transmission reinstates this and also makes it a casual piece rather than a standout item used only for the purpose of adding shock value. The brand’s goal to combine ideas visually is executed well in this collection.
While Body Bound doesn’t go to the same lengths as some of the other designers have in showcasing androgyny, their collection still embodies a sense of the modern man in each of their pieces. The designer uses different proportions and sizing to resemble an idea of the modern man that is quite different from the standard fits we see in most mid-end fashion brands today. Each look has a different colour story that makes a statement of clean elegance.
Every look in Edward Crutchley’s collection this season not only makes a statement towards advocacy for androgyny, but also shows flawless, wearable pieces that so many would love to have in their closet. The renaissance style dresses on men allow for a different take on elegance. The skirt and jacket sets show brilliance in mixing patterns, and the edgy, masculine pieces worn by many of the women in the show display strength in a new identification that has often been misunderstood. Edward Crutchley’s show exemplifies the strength in going against the norm.
The Fall Collection for Xander Zhou also followed the common theme of gender barriers this season. Rather than a collection that depicts one or the other between masculine and feminine, the collection blends the two by displaying street wear in pieces such as his jackets, pants and layering techniques as well as an undertone of elegance, which shows in the blouses and prints that are used. Cutouts have been a look for a while, mostly being shown on the backs or on pants. Xander Zhou also utilizes cutouts but in a different style on the front, indicating a new trend for fall.
A distinct highlight of London Fashion Week Men’s is the show, MAN. This feature was brought by Top Man and Fashion East, as a way to showcase upcoming menswear designers. If some designers during the week broke down barriers, the ones in MAN, annihilated these claims to fashion norms as the looks were stylishly brilliant to say the least. The gowns, mini dresses, skirts, suits, eclectic makeup and everything else was a true celebration for new designers, London, and all those who like to embrace their uniqueness.